Favorite oil weight?

[tsaltario]

Hey Guys, what's your favorite oil type/weight that you run in these cars?

[turbo nasty]

Dino 20w50 (Valvoline) or 15w 40 (Rotella) and 1 qt of Marvel Mystery oil added during winter. Been using the Rotella with great results and will keep using it vs the Valvoline. Been running this formula since the Car was new/8 months old and the cam sensor gears that are supposed to wear out due to heavier oil is 154 k miles on the original sensor and nothing yet.

[VadersV6]

Dont use any oil with the starburst symbol on it, or your cam will go flat like everyone elses. The starburst symbol identifies the oils that have had the zinc ond phosphates severely reduced. (ZDDP) Its not because of the #3 exhaust lifter bore not being offset enough and all that... Its the reduced additives. Use oils that have plenty of these additives. Quaker State "Q" oils have enough. I run the "Q" high rpm oil now. Ive also run Valvoline "SYN", which has plenty ZDDP. RoyalPurple has a good spectrum of additives as well, and also redline. The Valvoline SYN additive is better than the GM EOS additive that everyone raves about. Has a much better additive spectrum. They say to run a whole bottle of that, but there is so much good stuff in it that you could get away with half a bottle. Thats what Ive been doing lately. The oils with the starburst are fine in the late model engines that have roller valvetrains, but not in our old school flat tappet motors. I used to run 10W-30, but I had alot of engine noise, so I went up to 20W-50. Now my motor is very quiet. It all depends on the amount of bearing wear and/or the clearances the machinists gave the motor when they rebuilt it.

[ANDYS87]

If you are a Rotella fan, stock up now......the formula changes for 2007 to meet emission laws...that means less additives!

Redline has the highest additives(zinc, phosphorus, and moly) than just about anything out there!

If you want to fortify a low-additive oil, try that Valvoline oil additive(think its called synpower??)...tested very high. GM EOS is kind of a gamble now. Some say that they lowered the ZDDP.

I prefer a higher viscosity. I'll run 10w-40 in the winter and 15w-50 in the summer. I might be old school, but I still believe thicker equals better protection....especially in a turbo application(high heat).

[12lbChevelle]

I'm liking this rotella, I've got about 125miles on a new cam (edel 204/214) and everything seems cool. I broke it in with normal oil (actually cheap chevron) and GM EOS. Used the rotella after............

[onslow]

Hi-

I have been using Mobil 1, 15-50...same as last owner. Car has 80K miles. If I get any tappet noise, I may go to somewhat heavier oil like Vader uses, i.e. 20-50.

For more opinions, blow your mind...search for "oil poll" thread...Posted 10-9-06.

Steve

[GNVYUS 1]

0-30 and now will be using 0-20. All the thinner oils have the 212 temp viscosity around 10 with a much thinner 75 degree viscosity to help start up lubrication.

The numbers show that the thicker oils in street cars are only hurting start up lubrication. And I believe more cars are showing a 5w-20 oil as the factory recommendation.

[Ormand]

10W30 Mobil 1. Been using it for about 80,000 miles, and the world hasn't come to an end yet. I guess if I were paranoid, I might run an additive to get the zinc and stuff that used to be in the "old" formulas. If I even put in a new cam, I will certainly use additives until the cam is broken in, but IMO, the oils sold now are safe for an engine that has already got some miles on it.

[turbo2nr]

Mobile 1 gives me more leaks. Pretty thin stuff at ambient, huh?

[MoeJr]

I am gonna be using Rotella 15/40. Guess I'll have to watch as I buy it to make sure it is the right stuff.

[GSX-PKV]

In both my cars I use Mobil 1 10w30 and add a bottle of EOS. I've used Mobil 1 in my T-Type for nearly 20 years and have not really noticed any unusual amount of leaks. Paul

[VadersV6]

Originally Posted by ANDYS87

If you are a Rotella fan, stock up now......the formula changes for 2007 to meet emission laws...that means less additives!

Redline has the highest additives(zinc, phosphorus, and moly) than just about anything out there!

If you want to fortify a low-additive oil, try that Valvoline oil additive(think its called synpower??)...tested very high. GM EOS is kind of a gamble now. Some say that they lowered the ZDDP.

I prefer a higher viscosity. I'll run 10w-40 in the winter and 15w-50 in the summer. I might be old school, but I still believe thicker equals better protection....especially in a turbo application(high heat).

Redline doesnt have the highest additives...well it depends on which additive you're looking at, but it is a top notch oil. We ran it in all our race engines, and they would tear down looking like a brand new fresh motor after an entire racing season in road racing. Royal Purple is comparable to Redline. I ran nothing but RP in my cobra for the last 4 years I owned it. Mobil 1 would drain out looking like tar after 4000 miles, while the RP would drain out at 8000 miles almost looking new. Valvoline SYN oil has alot of everything. The SYN additive (they have a SYN oil and a SYN additive) has absurd levels of zinc, phosphorous and moly. Check out the VOA's (virgin oil analysis) threads at bobistheoilguy.com Now itll no longer be a guess as to what you're putting in your engine. I ran Valvoline SYN in the GN for a couple oil changes and was happy with it. Im running the Quaker State "Q" high rpm 20W-50 now, with half a bottle of SYN additive. My engine is actually consuming less oil now and doesnt small like a oil processing plant at idle anymore like it did since I owned it. The smoking on startup and idle has stopped. The moly actually builds up over time on all the bearing surfaces and cylinder walls, and blowby eventually is reduced as well as emissions. I wouldnt believe it till I saw it, and now Ive seen it. That SYN has so much moly, its no wonder. I tried Marvel Mystery oil before and my engine sounded like a rock crusher. The point of MMO is that it has alot of moly which coats everything and cleans sludge out of lifters and all that. But its just too thin to be put in the crankcase IMO. I run it in the gas tank every once in awhile, and it actually causes my fuel pressure to stay high for alot longer. I notice that every time I run a bottle of it in my gas (over the course of a few tanks), my fuel pressure will stay high after shutdown for a LONG time. Theres several times where I still had pressure in the rails after an entire weekend of sitting. After a couple months of not running it, my fuel pressure will drop after about an hour. After running the MMO, I'll keep pressure in the rails for 3-4 hours. I figure maybe the moly helps keep the injector flapper or pintle or whatever it is, sealed.