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  #1 (permalink)  
Old January 11th, 2005, 10:34 PM
11's on the stock turbo
 
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Car starts then dies

I just disconnected the orange wire coming off the battery for 5 seconds to clear my code 45 and after reconnecting the car won't run for long. It starts and runs for 5 seconds then dies. Everytime I start it after that it runs for less and less time till all the car does is crank. I try to get the car to continue to run longer by playing with the throttle, but all it does is pop a few times and dies. I can tell the car gets fuel b/c I can smell raw fuel at the pipes. The car ran 30 minutes prior with no problems. I also disconnected the MAF and tried to start it with the same issue. I can hear the full pump run, saw no vacuum leaks and have good (40 psi) fuel pressure. Any ideas? I have a DirectScan file that I ran 30 minutes before if that helps.

I did find something interesting with the two relays near the blower motor on the passenger fender (near where the orange wire goes, the reason I found it). Check it out

http://www.zmydust.com/dougsfastz/im...N/IMG_2774.JPG

http://www.zmydust.com/dougsfastz/im...N/IMG_2778.JPG

Sorry for the blurry pics

What do these relays do? Anything else I can check?

Thanks guys,

Doug D
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1987 Buick Grand National, 88k miles, 42.5# inj, big mouth CAI,
3" external gate DP, custom catback, MAF Pro, LC1, Meth, Stock turbo and intercooler, 1.62 60' 11.96@112 25psi 25/23 timing
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old January 11th, 2005, 10:43 PM
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45 is low O2 reading

gnttype.org has the list

http://www.gnttype.org/maint/sensors.html

bad o2 sensor or wire to it

i had a heated o2 that dropped out while i watched it on the SM and almost couldnt coulndt beleive it , the car would start and then about two seconds later die ,threw in the old sensor and it fired right up no problems .


those relays are ac and fuelpump
http://www.gnttype.org/maint/sensors.html
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86gn bone stock shortblock ,ported irons ,71Q 75# ,212/208 flat tappet,CAS V2,ATR 3" HKS, ATR dual340m , 200-4r stageright, AC9"NL , TTWB 6.0, razor dual,msbc-1 ,LC-1.. 1.43 6.57 102.8 10.4 126.9
now w/ lonnie diers th400 w/brake, vig conv ,cometics 1.48,6.62,103.4,10.46, 126.9

87GN , duttneck, hipro,, 62TB ,PTE65 + PP, protorque 10.5" 2800, hooker duals, razor alky (dual), TTchip.
stock unopened w/TA49, 50#..1.57, 11.45, 117
now 030, steel mains, dutt cam ,msbc-1 ,LC-1 ,Cottons 3"DP Tial gate ,ported irons/intake ,turbosaver ,TE44,75#inj, 4" zo6 maf , bad 60' .1.63 .92.91 ,118.36 11.50 22psi

all times on 93 octane
big thanks to
julio at alkycontrol.com
eric at turbotweak.com

Last edited by pacecarta : January 11th, 2005 at 10:48 PM.
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old January 11th, 2005, 10:54 PM
11's on the stock turbo
 
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Thanks pace! What is the best O2, Delco?

Doug D
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1987 Buick Grand National, 88k miles, 42.5# inj, big mouth CAI,
3" external gate DP, custom catback, MAF Pro, LC1, Meth, Stock turbo and intercooler, 1.62 60' 11.96@112 25psi 25/23 timing
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old January 11th, 2005, 11:03 PM
GNBeswick's Avatar
It's just a V6 Regal....
 
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Ya, generally the AC Delco are the best, while you're replacing it, just go with the GNX 02 sensor, you can get one from Kirbans: https://www.kirbanperformance.com/st...cts/6679d.html
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old January 11th, 2005, 11:05 PM
11's on the stock turbo
 
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Thanks Asuka. What do I gain with a GNX sensor?

Thanks,

Doug D
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1987 Buick Grand National, 88k miles, 42.5# inj, big mouth CAI,
3" external gate DP, custom catback, MAF Pro, LC1, Meth, Stock turbo and intercooler, 1.62 60' 11.96@112 25psi 25/23 timing
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old January 11th, 2005, 11:26 PM
GNBeswick's Avatar
It's just a V6 Regal....
 
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The GNX sensor just has a little faster reading time, so it works a little better on performance oriantated TRs. Its really just a step up from the stock 02 sensor, looks the same and just plugs right in.
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"Asuka" (pronounced Oska) 85 Grand National -Original Owner, 87 drivetrain - Bored .40 over, Forged Diamond Pistons, Forged Eagle Rods, Comp 218/212 Roller Cam, Ported 8445 Heads with Port Matched Intake, Stainless ATR style headers, 3" GN1Performance DP with 46mm external wastegate, Test Pipe, 2.5" Catback Dual Exhaust, 60lb Injectors, Razor's Progressive Alky Kit, TurboTweak 6.0 Wideband chip, Walbro 340 Fuel Pump and hotwire, Adj Fuel Pressure Regulator, F-Body Radiator with Ramchargers Dual Fans, TE44 turbo, 23 Row Gbodyparts SLIC, RJC PP, Brian Hofer Trans w/ brake, Edge 10" 3000 Stall Torque Converter, LT1 MAF w/ Translator, LC-1 Wideband O2, Powerlogger
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old January 12th, 2005, 10:43 PM
11's on the stock turbo
 
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Well installed a new (but crappy) Bosch 02 sensor. The car still does the same thing. I did order a GNX one from Kirben, just waiting for it. What else can I check?

Thanks,

Doug D
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1987 Buick Grand National, 88k miles, 42.5# inj, big mouth CAI,
3" external gate DP, custom catback, MAF Pro, LC1, Meth, Stock turbo and intercooler, 1.62 60' 11.96@112 25psi 25/23 timing
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  #8 (permalink)  
Old January 13th, 2005, 02:55 AM
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sounds like the fuel pump is only priming and not turning BACK on after the car starts
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  #9 (permalink)  
Old January 13th, 2005, 08:54 AM
11's on the stock turbo
 
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The fuel pump relay does look a little messed up in the pictures. How to I go about troubleshooting that?

Doug D
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1987 Buick Grand National, 88k miles, 42.5# inj, big mouth CAI,
3" external gate DP, custom catback, MAF Pro, LC1, Meth, Stock turbo and intercooler, 1.62 60' 11.96@112 25psi 25/23 timing
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  #10 (permalink)  
Old January 14th, 2005, 08:37 AM
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Use a fuel pressure guage to confirm fuel pressure.

The GNX sensor AFS21 is suppossedly a little more resilient(sp) to heat. In other words, they were trying to protect the turbo in case the O2 decided to flake off.

When the motor is cold, its in open loop and doesnt use the O2 sensor. O2 sensor is used when the car gets temp and goes into closed loop.

So yes it sounds like the fuel pump doesnt stay running.

I beleive there is a plug to the oil pressure sending unit that can disable the fuel pump. And if the car has a "hot wire" kit for the fuel pump coming off that connector behind the alternator, meerly hook that wire to the back of the alternator and the fuel pump will run continously.. if it stays running.. you have something to look for.

HTH
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  #11 (permalink)  
Old January 14th, 2005, 11:36 AM
11's on the stock turbo
 
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Thanks Razor.

Vender Defender just told me about the disconnect black connector behind the alternator that I'm going to hook up directly to the back of the alternator. If the pump runs continously, what do I check for next?

Also, I know the pump works, because I get about 38 psi with the key in the on position and I can hear it run for a second to prime. It seems like it primes enough fuel to let it run for those 2 seconds and dies.

Doug D
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1987 Buick Grand National, 88k miles, 42.5# inj, big mouth CAI,
3" external gate DP, custom catback, MAF Pro, LC1, Meth, Stock turbo and intercooler, 1.62 60' 11.96@112 25psi 25/23 timing
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old January 14th, 2005, 12:12 PM
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Hi!
Fuel pump "prime" connector is on the driver's side with the "tach" terminal. Power this and the pump runs continuously.As I remember,it is a gray wire, probably also with such a connector. DO NOT power up the Green tach wire, don't know if you will blow the ignition module, but I don't want to find out! I always use this to fire up the fuel system after a long sit.
All this stuff is close to the power steering reservoir, may be taped to the harness on virgin cars. Seek, and ye shall find....
Dale
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***83 Buick Regal TType***
'87 drivetrain and all associated stuff.
Fresh rebuild with Stock block,ARP studs installed with stock caps,align bored to ensure proper fit.Sealed Power forged pistons,stock rods,resized for ARP bolts,stock heads with low cost stainless valves,206/206 Comp flat tappet cam, TA49 turbo,009 injectors,hotwired Walbro 340, Hooker cat back exhaust,K&N filter in stock airbox,Spearco water injection, pretty stock otherwise.
***89 Pontiac Turbo TA***
Walbro 340, Flowmaster muffler, otherwise stock.
***96 Buick Riviera***
3.6" blower pulley,otherwise stock.Runs 15s on a hot day at 4000 plus pounds weight, with the A/C on.
***84 Jeep Cherokee 2door 4x4***
87 Turbo Regal motor,thm700R4,rusty wild child,definitely a restoration awaiting progress.
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old January 14th, 2005, 12:18 PM
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On second thought, it probably is around the alternator. I'm losing my short term memory. What am I talking about, who am I? ETC
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***83 Buick Regal TType***
'87 drivetrain and all associated stuff.
Fresh rebuild with Stock block,ARP studs installed with stock caps,align bored to ensure proper fit.Sealed Power forged pistons,stock rods,resized for ARP bolts,stock heads with low cost stainless valves,206/206 Comp flat tappet cam, TA49 turbo,009 injectors,hotwired Walbro 340, Hooker cat back exhaust,K&N filter in stock airbox,Spearco water injection, pretty stock otherwise.
***89 Pontiac Turbo TA***
Walbro 340, Flowmaster muffler, otherwise stock.
***96 Buick Riviera***
3.6" blower pulley,otherwise stock.Runs 15s on a hot day at 4000 plus pounds weight, with the A/C on.
***84 Jeep Cherokee 2door 4x4***
87 Turbo Regal motor,thm700R4,rusty wild child,definitely a restoration awaiting progress.
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old January 14th, 2005, 12:37 PM
huh??
 
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Location: san diego
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yep it has a black connector and it fits also on your engine light compartment wire just disconnect and connect that wire works fine thats how i drain my tank. don't confue it with the green one that one is for a tach. it's the black conector with dark brown wire
and its just sitting there unconnected just make sure you don't forget to disconnect it when yoour done.
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old January 14th, 2005, 12:53 PM
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Hi!
Thanks for the help,I knew it was there somewhere....
Dale
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***83 Buick Regal TType***
'87 drivetrain and all associated stuff.
Fresh rebuild with Stock block,ARP studs installed with stock caps,align bored to ensure proper fit.Sealed Power forged pistons,stock rods,resized for ARP bolts,stock heads with low cost stainless valves,206/206 Comp flat tappet cam, TA49 turbo,009 injectors,hotwired Walbro 340, Hooker cat back exhaust,K&N filter in stock airbox,Spearco water injection, pretty stock otherwise.
***89 Pontiac Turbo TA***
Walbro 340, Flowmaster muffler, otherwise stock.
***96 Buick Riviera***
3.6" blower pulley,otherwise stock.Runs 15s on a hot day at 4000 plus pounds weight, with the A/C on.
***84 Jeep Cherokee 2door 4x4***
87 Turbo Regal motor,thm700R4,rusty wild child,definitely a restoration awaiting progress.
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old January 14th, 2005, 01:44 PM
11's on the stock turbo
 
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Location: Boca Raton, FL
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If the pump runs continously, what do I check for next.

Doug D
__________________

1987 Buick Grand National, 88k miles, 42.5# inj, big mouth CAI,
3" external gate DP, custom catback, MAF Pro, LC1, Meth, Stock turbo and intercooler, 1.62 60' 11.96@112 25psi 25/23 timing
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old January 14th, 2005, 01:58 PM
huh??
 
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Location: san diego
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then its the relay
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old January 14th, 2005, 04:11 PM
11's on the stock turbo
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Boca Raton, FL
Trader Rating: (7)
Posts: 513
Busa,

Look at the first pic in the first post, what do you think cause it to get hot like that?

Thanks,

Doug D
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1987 Buick Grand National, 88k miles, 42.5# inj, big mouth CAI,
3" external gate DP, custom catback, MAF Pro, LC1, Meth, Stock turbo and intercooler, 1.62 60' 11.96@112 25psi 25/23 timing
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old January 14th, 2005, 04:31 PM
huh??
 
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Location: san diego
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i see, it looked like mine at one time. you have a short somewhere
and your relay is probably jacked, mine was. smell it. it probably smells burned. i ended up buying a new relay and followed where those wires go to and re wired it. found out the power wire has rubbed off the plastic part and it was touching metal. took me a month to figure it out works fine now, i almost sold it thank god i didn't! ialso cheked all the power wires that hooke to the battery. the guy before had this thing all rigged up. my fuse kept poppin but i just kept putting one in till it got to the point it won't even run just crank. if you can't find the relays at the parts store i found mine at an automotive electrical fixer people and i asked alot of questions? good luck doug hope you fix it. like i said i started rewiring it i mean its damaged already right, might as well fix it.
abner
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old January 14th, 2005, 04:34 PM
huh??
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: san diego
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you can have those guy's test the relay also. or you can do it yourself. take the cover off and see if it closes that means power to the pump. have somebody turn the key on and off.
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