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Need wiring/hardware help....
My area of experience is not in custom electrical wiring, but I bet I can get some info here that will assist me.
I plan to remove the entire underdash wire harness and bulkhead connector and only wire for functions I need. After 20+ years, most of it race car time, it is a mess under there. Also, a few other local GN racers are almost at this point, so again I am the "test mule". What I am looking to do is run both a ground and power from the battery [in the trunk] to a distribution panel in the interior - like above the pass footwell. From there I will go to 2 sub-panels - one for switched power, other for constant on power. The starter will have a remote solenoid and its own cable directly from the battery, so it will not be on this system. The switched power panel would have a relay to power it up. Not a lot of functions to deal with in a race car, lights, fans, trans brake, line lock, RPM switch and few similar items. What I am looking to find are these 3 panels [or whatever the proper name] with out the high $$$ race parts. Seems like some high end stereos I have seen in GN's are fitted with wild components and really nice installs. Appreciate any comments and advise if I am on the right track looking for stereo type parts. [Actually I have used a high AMP stereo re-setable breaker for years w/the trunk mounted battery!] Thanks in advance for any help. ![]()
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Nick Micale 3334 W. Marconi Ave Phoenix, AZ 85053 602-866-9908 Home of the world's fastest stock block Buick! www.arizonaGN.net arizonagn@qwest.net
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Nick, I have done just that with my Vega. I will call you tonight with a few ideas. I have done mine on the cheap yet still very safe.
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Erik R. Skarsgard 1987 GN 12.79 @106 on pump gas, no alchy |
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What would do and to make it simple and clean is to start off with a main 12v power cable directly from the battery to a main junction box or panel.
The wire would be a 1/0 or bigger. 1/0 ground directly from the battery to the frame and another to the body. Make sure you use a circuit breaker or a ANL fuse. I use Bussman circuit breakers beware on copy brands. Make sure the fuse/breaker is near the battery. 1. Main power distribution/fuse 2. Main switch panel 3. Main relay panel Use relays to turn on/off everything in your car. This will elininate big bulky high current switches and the relays can power up to 30-40 amps of current. Also with relays it easier to troubleshoot electrical problems. Check out stinger products there should be something there for you Stinger Electronics :: Where It's Loud
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87 Buick Grand National Limit GT6131E, PTE FMIC, 70mm Accufab TB/PTE Plemun, JC power plate and pulleys, RJC boost controller, 65lbs Mototrons, 3.5" Big Mouth cold air kit, ATR 3" downpipe w/ATR external wastegate, ATR 3" dual exhaust, MSD Dis-4HO, Art-Carr #16930 3200 non-lock TC, CAS fuel pressure regulator, Walbro 340 hot wired, Scanmaster 2, QA1's, H&R sway bar, Eibach springs, Air bags. 17" T11's w/315 in the rears! New times 4/1/06 1/4 et 11.38@117.56 mph 1/8 et 7.10@97.57 mph 04 Ford Mustang GT GNRA Member #47 www.imagestation.com/members/HI87GN TURBO BUICK MEMBERS ***BEWARE*** OF BUYING OR SELLING TO MEMBER JUSA6! HID kits for sale http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/par...ml#post1505931 |
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