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Jacob,
before ruling out the cables being bad get a DVM and test for continuity between the + and - of your connections, if you have continuity between the + an - then there is part of your problem. Could be a bad connection, wont know until you test them. You want continuity from each end of cable from + to + and - to -. I personally would go to Radioshack and get a very cheap set of pre-amp cables already made up, I have never had one from there be bad yet. Not sure what kind of amp that is and how old it is but of it says low on the input jack then it is to feed the amp with signal so it can play through your subs at a lower crossover point. If the amp is bridgable make sure that it is stable in 4 or 2 ohm configuration and hook up the subs according to their impedence, very important. If you go below the amps rated stability, you can burn up an amp very quickly. Dont worry, they are not stupid questions .
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1986 Buick Grandnational MODS: 17" x 8" Billit Centerline "Champ 800's" wrapped in 225/45 Nitto 450s, Bell Tech 2" dropped front spindles, High flow cat/dual 2.5" diameter mandrel bent pipes and Flowmaster Delta Flows with dumps in front of rear axle, '87 GN grille, Polished aluminum mass air flow pipe with K&N on a 150,000 plus mile stock unopened motor. |
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Hey. Its a radio Shack Optimus 100 watt 2 way amp. I guess since you use the radio shack stuff often, you may know if these amps are any good. I checked for the continuity with my DVM and it has continuity(spl.). So the amp is giving off power and stuff to the right wires. there is cont. between the (-)s and the (+)s off the amp. is this what I was supposed to see??
now I guess the only thing left is the homeade wires. I will go buy some radio shack ones next time im at the mall here. thanks for the help
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Jacob Morse 1970 Seamist Green GS350. Ported 350 and 200 4R. 1984 Black T-Type w/87 drivetrain. TA61, powerstroke, 50s, TT, etc. (Fast bastard child) 1985 WH1 T-Type 60,000 original miles & 100 percent stock. Brandi's Daily Driver. |
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