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  #1 (permalink)  
Old September 5th, 2001, 07:05 PM
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speaker wiring..

More questions.. Should I wire the speakers in my car series or parrallel? Whats the pros and cons? My amp can handle a 2 ohm load..

And what is low and high lever imputs? Im talkin about the amp I am getting..
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Old September 5th, 2001, 08:21 PM
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High level inputs is where you run the spkr leads from your head and connect that to your amp. Low level is where you use RCA's (preferred).

Well how many channels does your amp have? How many pairs of spkrs in ur car?

If you have a 4-channel amp and you are running the fronts, concert sound and rear then run the front and concert in parallel on one pair of channels and then run the rear off of the other pair of channels.

If you have a 2 channel amp and have the 6 spkrs I would say parallel the front and concert and then series those with the rear.
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Old September 5th, 2001, 08:35 PM
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If your amp is stable at 2 ohm mono, you can parallel 2 4 ohm subwoofers. If it stable at 2 ohm stereo, you can parallel 2 4 ohm subs on each left and right channel.

The pros and cons of parallel verses series is in a parallel load, the impedence goes down where the amp can deliver more power. In series, the impedence goes up cutting down the power of the amp. (pros) amp delivers more power to driver. (cons) the amp gets very hot and the clarity diminishes. The higher the impedence load, the cleaner the signal to driver but you lose the full power potential of amp.

You can take 4 4 ohm subs and do a combination of parallel and series and still create a 4 ohm load on an amplifier.

High level inputs means that you can use the + and - of a deck powered speaker out and use that to feed an amp at high level to give it input signal, where low level inputs will be pre-outs on your head unit usually rated at 2 to 4 volts on the pre-amp section. I hope I didnt confuse you, speaker load is very critical to the performance of an amplifier and if you go below the level of its rated stable load, you can run an amp hot and cause it to shut down.
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Old September 5th, 2001, 08:38 PM
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4 channel and I wil run the fronts and concert sound speakers in parallel on one set of channls and the other set of channels will fire the back 6 x 9's.
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Old September 5th, 2001, 08:39 PM
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thanks guys!
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Old September 5th, 2001, 08:44 PM
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No problem on the help. If you amp has some power, I would series the doors and the dash speakers to get an 8 ohm load and will be a little cleaner than at a 2 ohm load. Try it both ways and you will be able to hear an audible difference in clarity. Just my .02 cents on clean sound .
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MODS: 17" x 8" Billit Centerline "Champ 800's" wrapped in 225/45 Nitto 450s, Bell Tech 2" dropped front spindles, High flow cat/dual 2.5" diameter mandrel bent pipes and Flowmaster Delta Flows with dumps in front of rear axle, '87 GN grille, Polished aluminum mass air flow pipe with K&N on a 150,000 plus mile stock unopened motor.

Last edited by Audiowizard : September 5th, 2001 at 08:47 PM.
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Old September 5th, 2001, 09:16 PM
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ok.. Does anyone have the wiring diagram on the front and concert sound speakers? Im assumming here that they are wires parallel from the factory .. How would I change it to series?
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Old September 5th, 2001, 09:58 PM
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I wouldnt recomend cutting up your factory harness, just run new speaker wire to the dash and doors. It will simplify wiring since you are running an external amp anyways. You can buy some Radioshack 14 AWG for .10 cents a foot and will be sufficient for your 4 channel amp. I am building a subwoofer cabinet and custom door pods for Scott4DMny and he ran seperate speaker wire for all his drivers and purchased a wiring harness adapter for his Kenwood and used the power accessories and ground from his factory harness to run his head unit without cutting up harness.

His system is gonna be way louder than mine with the Punch DVC 12s and 2 punch 200s giving them the motivation that they need .
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