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What's the best biting pads out there?
I think i am going to go ahead and replace my disc brake pads for a little extra bite while I'm doing my brakes. What's the best kind that have the most bite? How much? Where do you get them?
Right now I have VGX's on there....not sure what to make of them. Oh yeah....do I need to have the rotors turned when replacing brake pads? My current pads still have some meat on them, just thought maybe there's something better out there. Thanks.
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![]() 1987 Regal LC2, hot-wired, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, blue top injectors, TE-60 turbo, Accufab adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Turbo Tweak alky chip, GN110T 212/206 duration cam, Duttweiler necked I/C, Alkycontrol, 3 inch mandrel bent Dynomax exhaust, Scanmaster, OD lockout detent plate, trunk braces, jounce braces, 145 mph speedo, RJC power plate and RJC boost controller http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/how...onversion.html |
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Hawk pads are going to grab better than any pads on the market but they are more for an Autocross/race application and arent going to last very long for normal street driving.
I personally would just get a good set of ceramics from the parts store. And on my C5 brakes, I used ACDelco ceramics with exceptional performace.
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Turbo Farm West"N.T.F.A. certified"Specializing in Turbo Powered Wind Sprints 86 GN "SINFULL" E85 Powered 249c.i. Stage2, 70HPQBB |
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There is a whole science to pads and just based off of bite is hard.
Typically a pad that bites quicker (cold) will not do as well when hot and vice versa. Other things come into play like how hard is the friction materials on the rotor etc? i.e.- Higher metallic content stops better hot and wont fade but may have a tendency to squeal a little. As mentioned for just everyday driving I would just get the middle of the road pad from the parts store and roll.
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"If you think that the same govt that brought you the "cash for clunkers" program really gives a darn about your 80's turbo regal i suggest you think again" Richard Clark in ref to ZDDP level in current oils ![]() 87GN- GT3255E, Turbosaver, Razors Alky, ESP FMIC, Blitz SSBOV, 3" THDP, TA Headers, 3" ATR Crossflow, Ext G, Gen2, LT1 MAF, 38's, PTC 2.6Kish L/U, EA/White/Bertram stg 2 trans, QA1 ft & rear, UMI rear Ups(adj) & Lows, HR Bar, Moser axles, Eaton. Manual windows, seats, and locks. Custom tweed interior 03' G35 Coupe 5At, Blk on Blk, Leather, 18's, Prem pkg, Bose, JDM clears....wifes car Need your trans done right? Call Lonnie http://www.extremeautomatics.com/home.html |
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You don't have to if they look good (no grooves or odd wear) and you aren't experiencing problems like brake pulsing. Most shops will want you to turn them if they are servicing pads just to make sure everything is true upon delivering the car to you. I tend to do the same with my vehicles.
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1987 Turbo Regal, now with Hydroboost. Stops on a dime and gives 9 cents change. 1996 Mustang Cobra, laser red, mostly stock super clean driver 2002 Buick Regal GS | 2004 Toyota Tundra DC 4x4 ![]() Most Popular Technical Articles: ![]()
Last edited by 1quick6; July 29th, 2010 at 08:47 PM. |
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Quote:
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![]() 1987 Regal LC2, hot-wired, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, blue top injectors, TE-60 turbo, Accufab adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Turbo Tweak alky chip, GN110T 212/206 duration cam, Duttweiler necked I/C, Alkycontrol, 3 inch mandrel bent Dynomax exhaust, Scanmaster, OD lockout detent plate, trunk braces, jounce braces, 145 mph speedo, RJC power plate and RJC boost controller http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/how...onversion.html |
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Also saw these...Duralast Gold Cmax/Brake Pads - Front | Brake Pads - Front | 1987 Buick Regal 6 Cylinders 7 3.8L SFI OHV Turbo | AutoZone.com
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![]() 1987 Regal LC2, hot-wired, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, blue top injectors, TE-60 turbo, Accufab adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Turbo Tweak alky chip, GN110T 212/206 duration cam, Duttweiler necked I/C, Alkycontrol, 3 inch mandrel bent Dynomax exhaust, Scanmaster, OD lockout detent plate, trunk braces, jounce braces, 145 mph speedo, RJC power plate and RJC boost controller http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/how...onversion.html |
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I say go with the Duralsts! I've had good luck with them and the price is right, and most importantly LIFETIME WARRANTY!!
But to answer your question, yes HAWKs are the best GRABBING pads out there.
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Turbo Farm West"N.T.F.A. certified"Specializing in Turbo Powered Wind Sprints 86 GN "SINFULL" E85 Powered 249c.i. Stage2, 70HPQBB |
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Hawks grab great but wear fast. one drawback to them. The ceramics I don't have a lot of experience with but I do with the carbon metalic. I had them on my Camaro years ago and loved them The hotter they got the better they worked. The old police pads were sintered iron and would eat the rotors pretty badly but they worked unde harsh conditions. Hard to find now and very expensive if you do find them.
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I am careful when selecting brake pads. They are a lot cheaper then front end sheet metal. Even an expensive pad will be less expensive in the long run.
The minimum pad rating to use is an FF. This would be a mid to upper range semi-metallic pad. Such as a Raybestos pad from CarQuest. The FF will be printed on the side of the pad material or backing plate. These pads have good initial bite, and a decent linear response. For a street pad they are at the higher end of fade resistance. In general this is the pad I go to. However, with they way these cars move, I would (and did) go with a better pad in the GN. StopTech has their Street Performance pad. This is what is going on the front with the LS1 conversion. One down side to the LS1 brakes is a lack of pad selection. Where, if you have the stock GN/Regal brakes there is other choices available. The other pad I considered was the Raybestos Advanced technology Semi-metallic pad. About the same price as the Stop Tech's. I believe that pad is another good choice. On the SO's stock '87 Regal it usually received the good semi-metallic FF Raybestos pads. As mentioned, good bite, good friction level, and decent fade resistance. When it needed new pads they were out of stock on those. So I tried the Raybestos ceramic pads. Cost a few dollars more but I had heard good things about them. Not the same as the semi-metallic. Low initial bite, and lower friction level. Took more pedal pressure for the same stopping rate. SO didn't like them either. She had no confidence in them. I hope this helps with brake pad selection. There is nothing worse then not being able to haul a car down. Or the feeling in your gut when the brakes fade to nothing. It is bad enough that these cars are handicapped with little 10.5" rotors. I can't see handicapping them further to save a few dollars on brakes pads. RemoveBeforeFlight |
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Hawks are alot noisier, but stop great. I would also turn the rotors or get new one's if they are getting thin.
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Dave Racecar #1 87 T-Type (Just make an offer) No new combo to come, and a bunch of parts to sell. Racecar #2 93 Nissan 240sx cp (at least its a rwd import) 16.3@83mph
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I ve had good luck with Akebono-they make brakes for lexus, adapt ones sucked in comparison, they wore faster and had a lot of dusting.
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87 Stage2 in the works! |
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