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I am having issues but its not that. I am waiting on a response from Bob because he sent me the wrong size feed hose. He was there every day to explain to me why I needed to have this system, and once I bought it, he disappeared and is a bitch to get ahold of. I would like to get mine set up, but I just cant because of these ridiculous delays. When was the last time you talked to bob? By the way, did you have any issues with that spitter fitting on the hydroboost? You have to take that one fitting out and replace it with an -an fitting. It has a little rubber o-ring on it. the first fitting had a space for the o-ring, but the new one doesnt seem to and its getting crushed against the flat part and not seating where its supposed to. Starting to get irritating.
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87' Buick Grand National "New Pro Touring Project" 03' Subaru WRX going back to stock, EVO 8 or 9 on the way.....hopefully Please do not mistake my kindness for weakness. I talk alot of shi*, and don't have a running car to back it up. SNIPERSIXX SOLD ME DAMAGED HEADERS AND RAN OFF WITH MY MONEY!!! HE IS A CROOK!!! DO NOT BUY FROM THIS GUY!!! GO HERE! http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/par...ported+headers His email is Gotoa438@aim.com |
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Last time I actually spoke with Bob was on Monday the 14th. He wasn't terribly nice but did have new braided lines made up and shipped them to me in time for the weekend. These lines had good fittings and went on the car without any drama. I have not had any problems with the connections to the hydroboost or the banjo fittings; that part has gone just fine. I did not have to change anything on the hydroboost but also did not go with the braided line for the return to the reservoir. I can only assume I must have something wrong in my hookup; Bob didn't include any directions and the little bit he did send via email didn't include any diagrams for the return line. How do you have your return line (the low pressure line) set up? I teed the reservoir line from the steering gear back to the reservoir. My system is obviously not relieving pressure and therefore not releasing the brakes. Needless to say after more than two weeks of messing with this it was not my best decision relative to fixing my Powermaster. I should have just bought a rebuilt PM and stuck it on the damn car; perhaps I'd be driving it by now. 13 miles is my total for 2008 so far....
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1987 Regal T pkg with LC2, 14,360 original miles, has Reds chip, Tin Man cold air, G Bodys 3" downpipe, Walbro 340 pump, Caspers hot wire kit, Kirbans front frame braces, Dutt modified intercooler, mini-starter, vacuum brakes, Simmons nasty rims w/Sumitomo big shoes and stock exhaust. This is an all original black paint chrome car with gray bucket seat interior. |
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I have mine routed except for the hose I am missing for the Feed line. I went with the aluminum reservoir so I have a separate return from the hydroboost spitter. that is supposed to reduce pump whine.
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87' Buick Grand National "New Pro Touring Project" 03' Subaru WRX going back to stock, EVO 8 or 9 on the way.....hopefully Please do not mistake my kindness for weakness. I talk alot of shi*, and don't have a running car to back it up. SNIPERSIXX SOLD ME DAMAGED HEADERS AND RAN OFF WITH MY MONEY!!! HE IS A CROOK!!! DO NOT BUY FROM THIS GUY!!! GO HERE! http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/par...ported+headers His email is Gotoa438@aim.com |
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Thanks for a moment of sanity in the nutty process of troubleshooting a "bolt in" replacement braking system. Your advice is the most sensible thing I've heard in several months of trying to get a pristine automobile back on the road. Looks like I'll be under the hood and under the dash again this week. Not sure if there is any adjusting at the MC; I'm guessing all the play is under the dash cause that would be the harder of the two! ![]()
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1987 Regal T pkg with LC2, 14,360 original miles, has Reds chip, Tin Man cold air, G Bodys 3" downpipe, Walbro 340 pump, Caspers hot wire kit, Kirbans front frame braces, Dutt modified intercooler, mini-starter, vacuum brakes, Simmons nasty rims w/Sumitomo big shoes and stock exhaust. This is an all original black paint chrome car with gray bucket seat interior. |
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I had the wrong feed hose from Bob as well. He offered to swap it but after all of the waiting for other parts from him I opted to just get the parts from Summit......cost was about $30 or $40 (I forget since I'm trying to block out my Hydroboost installation nightmare as well). It turns out that the feed hose from Bob was a -8AN hose with -10AN fittings. What I got from Summit is -10AN thoughout so the pump is more likely to stay fed properly. Another option while you wait to contact Bob is to just use a cheap rubber hose from a local parts hut so you can at least get on the road.
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'87 GN (20,XXX miles) GTB6131E, PT&E SLIC, TurboTweak 93-94 chip, Razor's Alky, G-Body Downpipe, Hooker 2.5" testpipe back exhaust, 60lb Mototrons, 9" K&N, 160 t-stat, RJC Powerplate, Scanmaster, Walbro 340 hotwired, Adj. FPR, Eaton Posi, GNX-style dash, Hydroboost, Janis "Stage 1" Transmission, Baer 13" front/12" rear disc brakes, Vintage Wheel Works 45's 17x8 4.5"BS (Nitto NT555 245/45) and 17x9 4.75"BS (Nitto NT555R 275/40). ![]() Best ET - 12.45 at 115.26.....true street radials (2.06 60ft.), 24lbs of boost, 23/21 timing.
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bad
I've already had bad proplems from bob too.try to get with him when he was going to ship mine out too, finally got ahold of his wife to tell me something. they said they was backordered on some fittings. its been 3 weeks so far and no product so far. i hope i dont have these kinda proplems you guys are having. but it dont look to good on my part too.
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1987 Grand National Precision 68-h turbo, 72#inj, 204-214 cam, Champion iron heads & intake, RJC power plate & boost controller, Precision hat, 70mm t/b, ATR front mount, 200r4 trans, 9-1/2" PTC converter, 3-1/2" THDP, ATR straight shot, Metco upper's & lowers, ATR sway bar, 9" Moser-33 spline, Aluminum center housing, 3.50 gear 60Ft= 1.45 1/8= 6.79 MPH= 101. 1967 SS Chevelle GN poweredwww.cardomain.com/ride/2470743 |
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Wow , sorry to hear all these problems , i've had mine installed for a couple months with no real problems and the install went really smooth. The brakes are rock solid , dont give up if you can get this system worked out there is no comparison to the factory powermaster unit (nevermind the safety issue of the stock brakes going out at anytime with no warning) I wanted to install Wilwood brakes on the front , now with hydroboost I dont even need it , if I did install them it would be mainly for weight savings and looks at this point. Don't give up , this in my opinion is by far the best braking system for these cars.
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87 GN ,T-tops, stock block, stock heads/intake ported by Champion Racing. Precision GTQ 70 turbo & front mount intercooler. Siemens 72 lb/hr injectors, Red's double in tank pumps and 106 chip. Art Carr 9" converter & valve body, transmission built by Tranny Tech. Plus other cool stuff. |
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I hear ya... I plan on one more day in the garage trying to solve the "locked brakes" condition I currently have. Based on feedback from the forum I've come to the conclusion the rod needs to be adjusted in to relieve some pressure off the braking system. I'm not looking forward to taking the system out to adjust the rod; it's a bitch trying to fit 6'2" under that damn dash and my system has the four bolts that fit into the firewall and the four bolts are of course under the steering column. So that means a few hours under the dash undoing most of what I have already done at least once. I'm a decent mechanic and unfortunately a fairly trusting soul. When I was told by the seller this was a bolt on system I didn't anticipate the multiple problems I have had. One would expect with the words "bolt on" that they system was engineered to fit a specific application. I hadn't expected the engineering work to sort out what should have be sorted by the seller when paying $900 bucks for the darn thing. I truly appreciate the feedback in this forum, what I don't appreciate is not having driven my car this summer due to the lovely PM system dropping me on my ass then having significant and many problems installing the hydroboost. Hoping to finish work up a touch early tomorrow to get under the hood when it is not 95 degrees and humid here. I will let the crew know if I get this damn thing to work... how is your brake pedal feel on your system? So far mine acts like a wild hydraulic pump. . . it does stop the car but the pedal feel is far from OEM.
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1987 Regal T pkg with LC2, 14,360 original miles, has Reds chip, Tin Man cold air, G Bodys 3" downpipe, Walbro 340 pump, Caspers hot wire kit, Kirbans front frame braces, Dutt modified intercooler, mini-starter, vacuum brakes, Simmons nasty rims w/Sumitomo big shoes and stock exhaust. This is an all original black paint chrome car with gray bucket seat interior. |
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I can honestly say mine was a bolt on deal , thats what confuses me , sounds like these systems wer'nt all made the same. Mine used the existing two studs on the firewall that held the powermaster unit , I was even impressed with how the hydroboost unit slid right on. The only thing I had to modify was to make the hole slightly bigger (in the firewall) were the unit slid through , about 5 min. with a grinder. The brakes have a solid feel , not soft and mushy as with the powermaster , almost like a slight manual feel initially but with power as you give more pedal and absolute positive stopping power at the end.
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87 GN ,T-tops, stock block, stock heads/intake ported by Champion Racing. Precision GTQ 70 turbo & front mount intercooler. Siemens 72 lb/hr injectors, Red's double in tank pumps and 106 chip. Art Carr 9" converter & valve body, transmission built by Tranny Tech. Plus other cool stuff. |
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Sounds like many were a touch different; I don't mind so much as I think the four bolt set up is probably more robust. I would have liked to have received instructions at the time of sale, schematics for the PS lines, schematic for the reservoir return line, you know, that sort of EXPECTED documentation for a "BOLT ON" system...
really not happy there was no indication or instruction on how to determine end play for the brake rod going into the Hydroboost. It would certainly simplify the install if you considered the possibilities ahead of the install. Getting the clevis back into the brake pedal once I shorten it up should be a root toot hooting good time...![]()
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1987 Regal T pkg with LC2, 14,360 original miles, has Reds chip, Tin Man cold air, G Bodys 3" downpipe, Walbro 340 pump, Caspers hot wire kit, Kirbans front frame braces, Dutt modified intercooler, mini-starter, vacuum brakes, Simmons nasty rims w/Sumitomo big shoes and stock exhaust. This is an all original black paint chrome car with gray bucket seat interior. |
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my car has hydrboost also and the only problems ive had is blowing the braided line while building boost and my passenger side brake locked alittle bit one time and smoked the shoes but hasnt done it since so i dont know what caused it but this system holds really good
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87 buick turbo t 01 chevy truck with 6.0 04 gsx-r 750 turbocharged-sold 72 vega turbocharged-sold |
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found the problem but still do not have a solution. measuring the face of the hydroboost to the center point of the clevis and found 5 - 1/4 inches. measured my Powermaster and the same distance is 4 - 3/4 inches. needless the extra half inch is activating my four corners and keeping the car from moving. have been in contact with Power Brake Service and they are searching for a solution... in the mean while it's been 3 weeks on the hydroboost install and nearly two months without driving the car due to lack of brakes.... amazing...
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1987 Regal T pkg with LC2, 14,360 original miles, has Reds chip, Tin Man cold air, G Bodys 3" downpipe, Walbro 340 pump, Caspers hot wire kit, Kirbans front frame braces, Dutt modified intercooler, mini-starter, vacuum brakes, Simmons nasty rims w/Sumitomo big shoes and stock exhaust. This is an all original black paint chrome car with gray bucket seat interior. |
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I am concerned as I thought the powermaster pedal mates right up to the hydroboost without modification. Which master cylinder are you using? Maybe that is the issue?
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87' Buick Grand National "New Pro Touring Project" 03' Subaru WRX going back to stock, EVO 8 or 9 on the way.....hopefully Please do not mistake my kindness for weakness. I talk alot of shi*, and don't have a running car to back it up. SNIPERSIXX SOLD ME DAMAGED HEADERS AND RAN OFF WITH MY MONEY!!! HE IS A CROOK!!! DO NOT BUY FROM THIS GUY!!! GO HERE! http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/par...ported+headers His email is Gotoa438@aim.com |
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The brake pedal from the Powermaster works fine for the hydroboost. The master cylinder is the one from the kit that is offered by Power Brake Service. Bottom line is the 4 bolt flange hydroboost they sent me has a brake pedal rod that is long by 1/2 inch. This causes the brakes to actuate making it difficult to move the car. Bob is supposedly working on a solution; I'm not comfortable cutting the rod to length as the threads are not consistent across the rod. Right about where I would need to lop off 1/2 inch there are no threads; just a flat spot for about 1/8 - 1/4 inch... such fun... bolt in...
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1987 Regal T pkg with LC2, 14,360 original miles, has Reds chip, Tin Man cold air, G Bodys 3" downpipe, Walbro 340 pump, Caspers hot wire kit, Kirbans front frame braces, Dutt modified intercooler, mini-starter, vacuum brakes, Simmons nasty rims w/Sumitomo big shoes and stock exhaust. This is an all original black paint chrome car with gray bucket seat interior. Last edited by dz28 : July 23rd, 2008 at 06:09 PM. Reason: spelling |