Replacing Body Bushings. Need info on lift use and a Pic of the DIY "T-Bar tool

[SLZ]

Hello all. I have all the info on how to replace these bushings/bolts but I would like some more clarification on what this "tool" (that I have to make) looks like in real life. I seen the drawing of this "T-Bar tool example, from the directions from gnttype.org but it looks different than its described. Does anyone have or can take a pic of this tool (or draw a better pic of it) and post it so I can visually see what I need to build? I am attempting this in the next few days so any help is appreciated.

I will be using a 2 post lift with those 4 swing out arms. I have read on these boards of many people doing this project on jackstands and, essensially, being on your back. I have access to a two post lift (with the swing arm jack pads). I want to locate those pads on the frame without covering the body mount access holes. I need to know if lifting the body up off the frame(working one side at a time with one side hardware unbolted and the otherside loose) is not advised on such a lift due to the "delicate balance" that the car is sitting on the pads. Anyone have a way to do this job on a lift that is safe? Please reply. Any help is appreciated. Thanks STEVE Z

[BlackMetal]

I did mine on a lift, no issues. You'll have to check under the car to make sure the lift arms aren't blocking your access to the bolts, it's not too hard to keep everything clear.

I didn't make the tool because like you mentioned, the description and picture at GNttype didn't make sense to me, I just used a pole jack and a small piece of wood.

[novaderrik]

since you've got a 2 post lift- then why not just lift the whole car up by the frame and set it back down on the tallest jackstands you can find and move the lift arms to the pinch weld on the rocker panels- where the factory lifting jigs were attached to the body when it got set on the frame- and lift the whole body a few inches off the frame after taking out all the bolts? just remove the bumpers and unhook the steering shaft from the box, and you should get about 6" of clearance under there to work with.
granted, you'll still be on your back on a creeper doing the work, but it will probably cut the time in half and the body will drop right back down where it was when you are done.

[GoldHawg]

plz take good pics and post them here for the benefit of the rest of us!! A good write up would be awesome! Thx!

[turbonut85]

some good advise here...but BE CAREFUL and only try to lift one side at a time!! Change all the bushings on one side and start the bolts, leaving them somewhat loose til you get them all started on that side. Then snug one or two on that side before you loosen any on the other side. This will prevent the body from shifting on the frame. (If it shifts, your bumpers will not line up with the body when you set it back down.) Also, I would not try to lift the body more than 3-4 inches...especially if you don't unhook the brake lines and the three fuel lines in front of the gas tank!! Oh, and don't forget about the E-Brake cable that runs from the cowl through the frame rail on the drivers side and the shifter linkage!!! Another option is to maybe take a long piece of 1/4" angle iron and span it between the arms of your lift, and try to secure it to the pads with some bolts, ideally. Face the angle lip up and hook it inside the pinch welds on the bottom of the rocker panels. (Between the pinch weld and the frame) Then GENTLY lift the body up---leaving the body bolts tight. Then take a floor jack and lift up on the rear end just enough to put pressure and remove some of the bolts. Then gently lower the floor jack, (and the frame at the same time) Then when you are done in the rear do the same thing in the front under the crossmember. If you have any ?'s shoot me a PM with your # and I'll be glad to try to help---see avatar---I've had some experience with lifting a body off of a frame