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make sure you have anti sieze on you caliper pins. sounds like your left caliper is not working properly check to make sure the piston in that caliper moves free. I would anti sieze that also just a little though. Are the caliper you have used?
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87 t top gn totaled 365 days from purchase 86 s roof gn ta49 009 basicly stock, soon to be stroked 4.1 pushed whith a 76bb oooh I cant wait |
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Just a thought, make sure you've got the calipers on the correct side. The bleeder screw should high up top. If both bleeders are below the middle of the piston area more towards the bottom than top, then they are switched. You won't get a good bleed, air will be trapped in the caliper, resulting in a spongy pedal and erratic braking. Also check the amount of fluid coming out of each caliper when bleeding, should be similar side to side.
Pace & Raymon are on target about the hoses & anti-sieze. There is usually a white line along the length of the rubber hose and it shouldn't be twisted after installation. Also, a brake hose can collapse inside and not show externally, gives you nothing but grief. Good luck. Not to worry, you WILL eventually fix it.
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Turning to the right |
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check pins like they said and also calipers right side if all that is right needs a hose.
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87 GN - updated bottom 206/210 roller cam, 61mm p trim bb turbo,adjustable acctuator,60lb injectors,75mm tb ported plenum,Ported stock irons big valves,ported intake,Turbosmart manual boost controler,RJC power plate & pullies,accufab afpr,255+hotwire,maf translator (6.25),4 inch big mouth intake with integrated sensor, Gbody 21 row stock mount intercooler,3.42 gears,2800 stall,shift kit,3 inch torque tech exhaust,3" tig masters down pipe,poston headers,razor single nozzle progressive alky kit,tt alky chip, scanmaster,powerlogger,28" radial, was original.... ![]() 92 TY Boosting the dark side off things |
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You have got some pretty good advice. I have always lubed the slider bolts up with anti seize as well when doing the LS swap. Also I put braided lines on when installing, takes the hose issue out of the equation.
You'll get it fixed, when you do you'll crap yourself first time you nail the brakes real good, those LS brakes rock.
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Todd Kay 87GN 10.90 / 126 04.5 Cummins Black |
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Agreed, already some good advice given here.
I would like to add that if the steering wheel wants to pull away when it pull to the right, the problem is in the front brakes. If the whole car pulls (you really don't fell it in the steering) it's in the rear adjustment. HTH, Z
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87' Jeep Wrangler - 'Frankenstein' - 3rd or 4th motor (dont ask), pos trani from an 89 but soon to have an AX15, Holley 350, modified wiring harness, Flowmaster 40 duals, lift shackels, continuing... http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/index.php 87' Grand National - 'Zeus' - 200K with a d@mn good PowerMaster, but now waiting on a fresh turbo, a stretch intercooler install, fresh headers, downpipe, rear diff.... A.S.E. Certified Automotive Nut #1 (Always Something Else) The PowerMaster Bleeding Procedure: http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/bra...procedure.html An excellent PowerMaster Discussion: http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/bra...ster-87gn.html |
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I had a car the other day at work that had been "shot gunned" with all new calipers, hoses, prop valve, you name it. I checked line pressure and found both sides even, dug a little deeper.......bad lower control arm bushings! Bingo. Make sure the front end is tight, I know you stated that it all happened after replacing you brake stuff, but we have all seen stranger things!
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"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem" -- Ronald Reagan |
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Thanks for the tips so far.
>> Yes the calipers are used but supposedly "inspected and verified" with this kit I bought from a fellow board member. Other people have used his kit and been happy so I trust that the calipers are good. >> When you do the LS1 swap, you don't change the brake hoses, and as I mentioned this didn't happen with the stock brakes, so the hoses haven't changed. I will check that the hoses aren't twisted, but other than that, internal collapse of the hose is unlikely, it was fine before. The hoses are routed a little differently than stock because the connection point at the caliper is in a different location, but of course I would not have routed them in any way that seemed twisted or restrictive. >> Calipers are on the correct side, bleeders up at the top. >> I will go back and grease everything up just to be sure. >> It is a definite instant response in the steering wheel when braking, leaves no doubt in my mind that the front brakes are not working equally. Could air in the system cause a pull? I.E. more air in the driver's side hose causes that caliper to grip less than the right side?
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Last edited by BlackMetal : May 17th, 2008 at 12:58 AM. |
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Quote:
yes air in the line can cause this as well. Don't rule out the hose either, they are probably old and you may want to consider replacing them anyways for a firmer brake pedal feel. (even new rubber will be better than old stuff)
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11.255 at 121.5 (best mph:124.1) 87 GN, PT61, mototron 60#s .030 over, TRW pistons, ported and polished iron heads, with Manley 1.77, 1.50 valves, ported intake, 204/214, ATR headers, 2.5" exhaust, 3" ATR DP ,ebay fmic, moser axles, LT1 MAF, fuel mods, home built billet tranny and a 3400 CK 10.5. air bags and umi lowers CAs ATR rear sway bar, PAC alky kit, 1LE 36mm front sway bar, QA1 economy coil overs, Howe longer ball joints,bilsteins, Richmond 3.23s, eaton posi, ls1 brakes. Dads 86 GN-ported heads, 204/214, ATR headers/exhaust, PT61, 60s, alky, 3400 9/11, ebay front mount (supporting mods...) 11.5 at 124.1 mph 24 psi. modded 85 GN and now a new 87 T. |
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