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  #1 (permalink)  
Old May 14th, 2008, 11:58 PM
BountyHunter's Avatar
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Join Date: May 2005
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Hydro boost vs power boost vs Vac Brakes

Im looking to do a brake conversion and have been wondering which to go with or if I should keep what I have. I have the power boost in my 86 GN and a Vac set up in my garage ready to install. But like what I hear about hydro boost. So what do you guys like, and the reason for it. My purpose is for reliability, stopping power and lastly building boost at launch.
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86GN 76,800 Miles. Mods:Org Engine, All stock internals, Never removed the valve covers, PT62, 009's, Power Plate, Amsoil 9" cone filter, Eastern FM, ATR 3" DP, Scan Master 2.2,Powerlogger, Convo Pros/Nitto 555R DR, Walbro , Razor Alky, TT Chip, ATR Pitbull Exhaust, 3200 Stall, Trans and shift kit by Len Freeman of Performance Transmissions in LV, 70mm TB. 91 Oct@24lbs Boost
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old May 15th, 2008, 12:11 AM
Mechanical Engineer
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Terry, MS
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You will find people that will say.... go vacuum.... and there is nothing wrong with vacuum....it works well....as designed....and is real reliable. IMHO....however....the hydro-boost system provides far more breaking pressure (actual psi in the brake lines) than any vacuum setup....and even marginally more pressure over the failure-prone.... doesn't give a warning... powermaster.....

To the best of my knowledge, the powermaster was only available a couple years.... while the hydro-boost systems are still being built today on many makes/models of vehicles...... enuff said...

Go hydroboost.... you won't find a brake system any more capable of holding a car at the line.... w/o a tranny brake....
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1987 Buick GN

Currently getting freshened up....

Old Parts: 60# injectors, 3" TH DP with test pipe and hooker cat back, Walbro 340 pump, Razor's Alky, TT Chip, 3-1/2" MAF pipe with Big Mouth CA Kit and LS1 MAF, Translator.... yada yada

New parts: Ported heads with stainless valves, RJC FMIC, T&D 1.65 roller rockers, Comp XR2 Hydraulic Roller 210/215@.050 .549/.549 (with 1.65 rockers), champion ported intake, Hemco stock appearing doghouse, PT70 P-trim turbo with H comp. housing, N/A109 block bored .030 over with head studs, main studs #2 and #3 billet main caps, cometics, TRW forged .030 over slugs with hastings moly rings.

New times soon.


(1/8) 8.002 @ 86 mph 12.650 @ 106 mph with a 1.71 60' time with the stock turbo/dutt neck intercooler (best mph was 107.69 mph)
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old May 15th, 2008, 12:55 AM
GNVYUS 1's Avatar
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If your Powermaster is functionally properly than leave it alone and make sure to read up on the basic and not so basic maintenance procedures to keep it alive for as long as you can.

But if it's dying or is giving signs of passing on then rebuilding it or going the Autozone route IMO is a crap shoot and will probably lead to you just swapping it out for Vac or Hydro later on.

If $$ not a concern I do agree that the line pressure of the Hydro is very appealing especially if you don't want to deal with a transbrake and like big brake kits that excel under better line pressures.

I went vacuum, mainly because it was new for like $1XX some bucks and I have one freebie stop if the car stalls etc at regular pedal feel. I had one instance on my Powermaster that gave me a brick pedal for a few seconds and knew that if it ever died I'd probably be DOA, I believe Hydroboost has the same weak point on an engine stall etc.
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87GN T-Top down 421lbs.
Rebuild #2, BLK/BL Paint w/Custom Metal Flares, VPE Stg 3 Heads, 210/215 Roller Cam, TA49, V2 w/Blitz Blow Off, Stageright, PI 3400 5disc, KB Plenum/70mm TB, Razor's Alky Kit, 60lb Inj, -8/-6 SS Fuel Lines, MBC, Pwr Plt, PTE Oil Relocator, Preluber, Z06 Maf, Translator, Volt Master, Poston Headers, THSS 3.5" DP/Test Pipe, SS 2.5" Y Pipe w/No Muffs, PST 2" Drop, Poly Bushings, Boxed Upper/Lower Arms, Vacuum Converted, Aerospace 11" Brakes w/SS lines, Alum Drums, Polished Autodrags 15x8/15x10, 275/60 Nitto 555Rs
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old May 15th, 2008, 01:58 AM
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Location: Guntersville, AL
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I swapped to vac and love 'em... wouldn't change back to powermonster (or hydroboost) if they were free. All new components, less than $150, bulletproof reliability, brakes like every other normal GM vehicle. Turbo T/A has vac brakes... good enough for me.
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86 T-Type, mostly stock
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old May 15th, 2008, 03:35 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: South of Augusta, GA
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HYDROOBOOST!!! I saw a kit on hear that im sure i could didnt afford, found a way to make it fit off a donor car, works like a champ. Think ill sell the setup from my house $600 installed, and $450 shipped! These brakes are amazing, i can build 15psi boost(on dirt!) if i wanted!
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old May 15th, 2008, 06:40 AM
Mechanical Engineer
 
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Location: Terry, MS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR.BOOSTER View Post
If your Powermaster is functionally properly than leave it alone and make sure to read up on the basic and not so basic maintenance procedures to keep it alive for as long as you can.

But if it's dying or is giving signs of passing on then rebuilding it or going the Autozone route IMO is a crap shoot and will probably lead to you just swapping it out for Vac or Hydro later on.

If $$ not a concern I do agree that the line pressure of the Hydro is very appealing especially if you don't want to deal with a transbrake and like big brake kits that excel under better line pressures.

I went vacuum, mainly because it was new for like $1XX some bucks and I have one freebie stop if the car stalls etc at regular pedal feel. I had one instance on my Powermaster that gave me a brick pedal for a few seconds and knew that if it ever died I'd probably be DOA, I believe Hydroboost has the same weak point on an engine stall etc.
While it is true.... you only have an accumulator to "store" pressure for a brake hit or two while the engine isn't running........ it is my understanding.... that even after all the pressure is relieved from the accumulator.... like if the motor was dead..... you still have the equivalent of manual brakes......

On the PM... I think you just have a rock hard pedal.... and maybe 10% if any braking effect when you push the brakes until your face looks like ....
__________________
1987 Buick GN

Currently getting freshened up....

Old Parts: 60# injectors, 3" TH DP with test pipe and hooker cat back, Walbro 340 pump, Razor's Alky, TT Chip, 3-1/2" MAF pipe with Big Mouth CA Kit and LS1 MAF, Translator.... yada yada

New parts: Ported heads with stainless valves, RJC FMIC, T&D 1.65 roller rockers, Comp XR2 Hydraulic Roller 210/215@.050 .549/.549 (with 1.65 rockers), champion ported intake, Hemco stock appearing doghouse, PT70 P-trim turbo with H comp. housing, N/A109 block bored .030 over with head studs, main studs #2 and #3 billet main caps, cometics, TRW forged .030 over slugs with hastings moly rings.

New times soon.


(1/8) 8.002 @ 86 mph 12.650 @ 106 mph with a 1.71 60' time with the stock turbo/dutt neck intercooler (best mph was 107.69 mph)
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old May 15th, 2008, 10:45 AM
Got hotair?
 
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My car came with hydroboost from the factory and I love it. The car has the same stock rotors and calipers as the 85-87 but I can lock the sticky 245s on the front with no problem at any speed.
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06 Acura TL daily driver.
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  #8 (permalink)  
Old May 17th, 2008, 04:56 PM
Hot Air
 
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Vacuum works fine everywhere but on the starting line at the drag strip. It will not hold your car on the line if you have boosted the HP. Hydroboost all the way!
Conrad
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Turbonetic 66-S-BB-.63exh w/EVO WG (35mm) #10780, KB 70mm TB/Plenum, Champion port Intake/CI head/Fuel Rail/EGR B/O, Comp Hyd Roller #212/212 w/beehive, Scorpion 1.5 RR, ATR 3-bolt header/dual 3" Cat-Bk/DP301, 72# inj, RJC Pl, PTE TurboSaver, 12" B-Car frt/11" Baer rr disk, Hotchkis tubular up frt ctrl arms/frt sway bar, Metco rear ctrl arms & HNR sway bar, Eaton posi w/Moser 30 axle, GTA wheels, CAS V-1/St. Al. radiator, 4" cold air, XFI, GNX Dash, Autometer Dual Channel In. Air Temp, Billet Optima Battery Mnt, 9.5" ArtCarr LU 3k stall, DRW C. Al Tran. Pan w/700R filter. 11.6 @ 118 mph. Antifreeze in the Oil! Metal fines in Oil Filter. LOL.

Jack & Brian Cotton (www.cottonsperformance.com) (413-789-0531) The Greatest!
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  #9 (permalink)  
Old May 17th, 2008, 11:19 PM
87Regal3.8SFI's Avatar
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Sounds like some of you are using your hydroboost as a substitute for a trans brake.
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1987 Regal LC2, hot-wired, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, blue top injectors, Accufab adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Turbo Tweak chip, GN110T cam, TE-44 turbo, Alkycontrol, 3 inch mandrel bent Dynomax exhaust, Scanmaster, OD lockout detent plate, RJC power plate and RJC boost controller

Quote:
Originally Posted by corsair231 View Post
Build a car to go 11's and detune it to run 12's and you don't have to worry about parts breakage. Build it for 11's and try to push it into the 10's and all bets are off. Of course trying to run a number is fine if that is what you want to do but beware if you walk on the edge sometimes you fall off.
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