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  #1 (permalink)  
Old May 13th, 2008, 11:28 PM
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atr rear sway bar question
I was wondering what aftermarket lower rear control arms will fit nice with the atr rear sway bar? UMI? thanks for any help!
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old May 13th, 2008, 11:33 PM
I'm high strung
  
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I have boxed UMI lowers (not the tubular ones) and the ATR style bar both from Full Throttle. Everything bolts up like stock pieces. They are both on sale right now, but something tells me you already know that
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old May 13th, 2008, 11:35 PM
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I have the metco lowers on mine and work out great.
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old May 13th, 2008, 11:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8urV8 View Post
I have the metco lowers on mine and work out great.
Same here.
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old May 14th, 2008, 02:25 PM
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Any of u might have a pic of the bar & metcos installed ? Thanx.
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Old May 14th, 2008, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfirefighter View Post
I was wondering what aftermarket lower rear control arms will fit nice with the atr rear sway bar? UMI? thanks for any help!
UMI's here with the atr bar, fit great. no regrets, and you can feel the difference if you are not running the front sway bar.
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old May 14th, 2008, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by buttonfly View Post
UMI's here with the atr bar, fit great. no regrets, and you can feel the difference if you are not running the front sway bar.
are they the tubular ones?? thats what im looking to get if im sure it will fit.
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Old May 14th, 2008, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1BADTT View Post
Any of u might have a pic of the bar & metcos installed ? Thanx.
This is the best one I could find of mine.
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'87 Turbo T
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Engine, V1 intercooler and transmission by Extreme Automatics http://extremeautomatics.com/

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  #9 (permalink)  
Old May 14th, 2008, 08:48 PM
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Got mine installed today, sway bar and tubular control arms. It was a tight fit and took a big channel lock to squeeze the sway bar up in between the control arms. Didn't hear a single noise on the ride home, some people said it would chirp and groan with tubular control arms because it doesn't have a flat surface to bolt to. So far so good.
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Old May 14th, 2008, 08:49 PM
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Edelbrock lowers worked for me. We had some trouble with the metco tubulars.
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  #11 (permalink)  
Old May 14th, 2008, 11:21 PM
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Metcos and ATR bar here also.
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old May 14th, 2008, 11:35 PM
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I had the UMI tubulars and ATR and it was a tight fit and i did hear some clunking while turning over bumps. But they worked well together, but if i had it to do over i would use a boxed style lower to get the best fit.
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old May 15th, 2008, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YouLikeThat View Post
Edelbrock lowers worked for me. We had some trouble with the metco tubulars.
That's weird. I couldn't get my old ATR rear bar to work with my Edelbrock lower arms. The bar was too wide. The bar fit perfectly with the stock arms though..
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Old May 15th, 2008, 06:57 PM
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Trust me the ATR bar didn't look even CLOSE to fitting at first. I had the two bolts installed on the passenger side and was going to swing it up and bolt it to the driver's side control arm, but rather than coming up next to the LCA, it hit the bottom of it. So like I mentioned above I just squeeze the two together with a big channel lock and got it to fit in between.
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Old May 15th, 2008, 07:50 PM
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I recall i had to grind off some of the powdercoating off the ATR bar to get it to fit.
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old May 15th, 2008, 08:14 PM
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Thumbs up
Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinB View Post
This is the best one I could find of mine.
Thanx Kevin.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old May 15th, 2008, 09:20 PM
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Hotchkis makes rear control arms also. Avaialble from Summit and Jegs.
Conrad
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old May 15th, 2008, 09:53 PM
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The ATR bar is so thick at the mounting points, that I took an angle grinder and ground down a small "Channel" that the my UMI tubular lowers would sort of fit into. Have had it on there the past 2 or 3 years with no problems or noise at all. Be sure you are using some very stong bolts.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old May 16th, 2008, 07:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfirefighter View Post
are they the tubular ones?? thats what im looking to get if im sure it will fit.
Thats what I have, and just like everyone else I did have to play with it abit. I put everything on and just started the bolts. Then I had to make the bar see it my way that it was going in. You have to be careful though I have heard of people forcing it in to hard then they have developed squeaks because the bushing gets in the control arms get worn and then it becomes metal on metal. Just make it fit, with out to much negotion
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87 GN T-top car purchased from my uncle (Thanx!)
6152,TT,Alky control,THDP,ATR bar,UMI u&l's,DIY heads & intake,PTC converter.
best et:12.11 @ 111.5 w/old combo (above combo w/ TE44, stock heads, intake, and converter. Piss poor 1.8 60's on BFG DR's, unlocked. Still learning, but I'll get there!
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old May 16th, 2008, 05:02 PM
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Go with boxed LCA's not tubulars. Not enough mounting surface for the bar and it makes it too much of a tight sqeeze which will make your bushings bind. I'm not a fan of UMI's bushings at all. In fact, I cant stand them. I love the Hotchkis lowers and for the money, I think they are the best match with an ATR bar. Another trick, as was mentioned in a previous post is to grind the mounting surface of the bar until it slides into place between the LCA's with ease. This will reduce the risk of binding you