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Old January 5th, 2008, 03:23 PM
Signal 1 J-12
 
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Opinions on theG-Body drilled rotors please.

Anyone using the G-Body drilled-slotted rotors he sells....opinions good or bad please! I need to buy a set ASAP and have found only a few other sources for like rotors...might as well support a vendor.

TIA
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Old January 5th, 2008, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbov6joe View Post
Anyone using the G-Body drilled-slotted rotors he sells....opinions good or bad please! I need to buy a set ASAP and have found only a few other sources for like rotors...might as well support a vendor.

TIA
Dont buy drilled or slotted rotors. They will eat your pads and warp. Unless you are a serious autocrosser and dont mind going through brake parts becuase you need the de-gassing features of the drilled rotors, dont buy them. Otherwise you are spending your money on merely looks. Just get a good set of HAWK HPS pads and be done with it.
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Old January 5th, 2008, 07:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdpolzin View Post
Dont buy drilled or slotted rotors. They will eat your pads and warp. Unless you are a serious autocrosser and dont mind going through brake parts becuase you need the de-gassing features of the drilled rotors, dont buy them. Otherwise you are spending your money on merely looks. Just get a good set of HAWK HPS pads and be done with it.
I guess my pop has had good luck then...he has had a set of NAPA drilled/slotted rotors with ceramic pads on his car for 3 years with no problems at all. Thanks for the input.
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Old January 5th, 2008, 07:40 PM
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I suppose if you just want them for the look then go for it! You really dont need them though.
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Old January 5th, 2008, 07:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdpolzin View Post
I suppose if you just want them for the look then go for it! You really dont need them though.
+1 for the look feature
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Old January 5th, 2008, 07:58 PM
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It's true you don't really need drilled and slotted rotors on a street car, but, you don't need 500 ft.lbs. of torque either. And how many of us have that? COOL CARS SHOULD HAVE COOL BRAKES!!
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Old January 5th, 2008, 08:12 PM
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if you have the money get the all wheel disk brake setup from baer or willwood
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Old January 7th, 2008, 11:39 AM
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Drilled/Slotted rotors look cool. There I said it!

For everyday street driving they'll be fine as long as you avoid the chinese junk.

I plan on getting a set of slotted & dimpled rotors, so they look decent but w/o the drawbacks of drilled holes.
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Old January 7th, 2008, 11:59 PM
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For no more street driving my car sees I'm not overly worried about it. My stockers are warped and need to be turned so I fingered I'd throw some drilled ones on there for the heck of it. At 120+ mph and a real short run off at my local track I want all the braking available with a stock system. Right now I don't have the cash for a high dollar set up like Baer and Wilwood, maybe someday when I finish mucking with all my other toys
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Old January 13th, 2008, 12:39 AM
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I am confused concerning drilled rotors. I was led to believe drilled rotors were prone to crack. My confusion starts when I see GM putting drilled rotors on the Z06.

I purchased slotted rotors from Baer.
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Old January 13th, 2008, 12:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger View Post


My confusion starts when I see GM putting drilled rotors on the Z06.

I purchased slotted rotors from Baer.
All drilled rotors are not the same. Heat soaks differ. Different sizes.

Varying metallurgy on the rotors. Different drilling procedures.

Various heat-treat and or cryo rotor prep treatments.

Z06 rotors are massive & heavily air-cooled, per GM engineering.


Cooling slots on TR rotors = Good. Drilled TR rotors = Pass.
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Old January 13th, 2008, 12:34 PM
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I'm sure the drilled rotors on the Z06 are 3 or 4 x's more expensive then the rotors I'm putting on my car....I'll take my chances anyhow.
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Old January 13th, 2008, 12:57 PM
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I had cross drilled rotors on my 99 Z28 camaro... stopped GREAT at 155MPH (no not in the quarter... on the highway )

and they NEVER cracked or had problems.

You get what you pay for just like with anything else... and they should actually warp LESS than a standard rotor... not more if they arent a POS.

I had WAAAYY less brake fade with cross drilled rotors and would buy them again in a heart beat. Just get a good set...
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Old January 13th, 2008, 01:13 PM
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I've had the cross-drilled/slotted zinc plated rotors on my GN for like 5 yrs. now without any problems with them, although they were a little pricey when I bought them back then.
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Old January 13th, 2008, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbojd View Post
I've had the cross-drilled/slotted zinc plated rotors on my GN for like 5 yrs. now without any problems with them, although they were a little pricey when I bought them back then.
ditto
i had them on a 3400#car that went 132mph and no issues here and they didnt fade.... My 2 cents
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Old January 13th, 2008, 03:18 PM
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You guys that are claiming they are good - Post up where you got them or what brand. Thanks
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Old January 13th, 2008, 03:44 PM
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Try ACDelco.
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86GN "Sinfull" Corner Carving Stage 2. You want some?? No? I didnt think so!!!!

87 Limited - 57K blackout, moonroof, CSII stock show car in the making!!!

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Old January 13th, 2008, 06:08 PM
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Lots of different ones out there. Baer came out with the Decelarotors but are on back order til Feb. Look on Auto Parts Fast at RockAuto and they have a few brands there. I see Raybestos has a couple of different ones on that site.

Jegs and Summit offer different ones as well.
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Old January 13th, 2008, 09:24 PM
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Hydroboost Conversion

The Main Reason Rotors Warp, Is Because The Back Brakes Are Weak. They Should Have Enough Power To Pull The Entire Chassis Back From The Rear. The Factories Have Been Gun Shy About Too Much Rear Brake, As They (drum Brakes) Can Lock Up Much Easier. This Is O.k., Until, In The Rain, Rear Lock Up Can Make The Car Twist Around And Cause Head-ons. Bringing The Rears Up Is A Fine Line. We Pioneered The Use Of The 7/8" Wheel Cyls In 1987, Instead Of The Factory 3/4" Cyls. This Brought The Heat Off Of The Rotors. Drilling Holes Leads To Cracks And A "cheese Grater" Effect On The Pads. Cast Iron Is Durable, But Likes Even Temperatures Across The Casting. What We Do On Most Vehicles, Especially Suburbans And F350's, Is Cut The Splash Shield And Bend It To Become An Air Scoop Into The Rotor. Rotors Suck Air Into The Inside Center, And Fling It Out Centrifugally, Like A Turbo, Or Hair Dryer. The Old Drum Brake Cars Had Full Hub Caps. The Daytona Cars Removed The Headlights And Ran A Hose Down Into Ventilated Backing Plates To Cool The Brake Shoes. When G.m. Went To Discs, They Designed The Rally Wheel With Slots For Air. All Of The Custom Wheels Out Now, With All The Swoopy Slot Designs Are Just A Variation Of The Rally Wheel. The Moral Is With Adequate Stopping Pressure, And Even Front To Rear Brake Balance, Drilled Rotors Are Not Necessary. Drilling Actually Reduces The Friction Surface.