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  #36 (permalink)  
Old April 6th, 2007, 07:16 AM
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No sweat, man take your time! Have fun on the anniversary!!!!
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old April 8th, 2007, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nero View Post
No sweat, man take your time! Have fun on the anniversary!!!!

Nero,

I am making progress (LOL)...I sprayed everything with penetrating oil today. I plan on swapping out this Friday. Here's at least a pic of the new upper control arms:



Rob
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Razor's Alky, Red's XP fuel pump hotwired, Accufab AFPR, TurboTweak Alky chip, Scanmaster 2.1, 9 inch K&N filter, aluminum driveshaft, 160 thermostat, test pipe, DMH electric exhaust cut-out, TH 2.5 inch exhaust with Magnaflows, RJC powerplate, torque strap, Dutt neck intercooler, LT1 MAF, Translator Plus, 3" THDP, Digi-Tails sequential LED tail lights, Eaton posi, TA Performance rear end girdle

Simmons wheels (17x8.5 front (4.32" backspacing) with 235/45/17s Vredestein Sessentas, 17x9 rear (4.75 backspacing) with 255/45/17s), SC&C Street Comp Stage 2 kit (adjustable upper control arms, Howe tall upper and lower ball joints, S10 Xtreme lower control arm bump stops), 13 inch Baer front brakes, S10 rear wheel cylinders, Moog 5658 front springs with SPC one-half inch spacers
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old April 8th, 2007, 07:20 PM
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Nice. I did my gbodyparts tubular uppers in about 30 mins per side last week. Have fun!
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1987 WE4, PT52, PTE front mount, 50 Lbs., 70mm TB/Hemco upper, Razor's Alky, THDP, RJC EVERYTHING! ATR stainless 3" exhaust, Test pipe with electric cutout, GN spoiler, Turbo Tweak chip, Scanmaster, EGT, Convo Pros, a ton more! 11.58@120 1.8 60' time!

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  #39 (permalink)  
Old April 8th, 2007, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Chevymd38 View Post
Nice. I did my gbodyparts tubular uppers in about 30 mins per side last week. Have fun!
Great to hear it went easy for you. Any special tips or tools you recommend to make the removal/installation easier?

Rob
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Razor's Alky, Red's XP fuel pump hotwired, Accufab AFPR, TurboTweak Alky chip, Scanmaster 2.1, 9 inch K&N filter, aluminum driveshaft, 160 thermostat, test pipe, DMH electric exhaust cut-out, TH 2.5 inch exhaust with Magnaflows, RJC powerplate, torque strap, Dutt neck intercooler, LT1 MAF, Translator Plus, 3" THDP, Digi-Tails sequential LED tail lights, Eaton posi, TA Performance rear end girdle

Simmons wheels (17x8.5 front (4.32" backspacing) with 235/45/17s Vredestein Sessentas, 17x9 rear (4.75 backspacing) with 255/45/17s), SC&C Street Comp Stage 2 kit (adjustable upper control arms, Howe tall upper and lower ball joints, S10 Xtreme lower control arm bump stops), 13 inch Baer front brakes, S10 rear wheel cylinders, Moog 5658 front springs with SPC one-half inch spacers
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old April 8th, 2007, 08:39 PM
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jack up the front of your car, put jackstands on both sides. Put your jack under the lower control arm and jack it up to load the suspension. Take out the cotter pin on the ball joint, loosen the bolt about 1", and slowly lower the jack. The spring will do the work separating your ball joint. when you undo the two splined bolts attaching the uppers to the frame, make sure you don't strip the splines, it'll be a pain to reinstall. Also make sure you take the shims and remember where they were and in what order. A zip tie works well to secure them together if you are going to take a while. Then, just bolt on the upper arm, put in the shims, attach the ball joint, and put the cotter pin back in. Piece of cake. Oh yeah, don't forget to take the wheels off...
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1987 WE4, PT52, PTE front mount, 50 Lbs., 70mm TB/Hemco upper, Razor's Alky, THDP, RJC EVERYTHING! ATR stainless 3" exhaust, Test pipe with electric cutout, GN spoiler, Turbo Tweak chip, Scanmaster, EGT, Convo Pros, a ton more! 11.58@120 1.8 60' time!

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  #41 (permalink)  
Old April 8th, 2007, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevymd38 View Post
jack up the front of your car, put jackstands on both sides. Put your jack under the lower control arm and jack it up to load the suspension. Take out the cotter pin on the ball joint, loosen the bolt about 1", and slowly lower the jack. The spring will do the work separating your ball joint. when you undo the two splined bolts attaching the uppers to the frame, make sure you don't strip the splines, it'll be a pain to reinstall. Also make sure you take the shims and remember where they were and in what order. A zip tie works well to secure them together if you are going to take a while. Then, just bolt on the upper arm, put in the shims, attach the ball joint, and put the cotter pin back in. Piece of cake. Oh yeah, don't forget to take the wheels off...
Thanks for the tips. I will probably just replace the splined studs with some grade eight bolts (per this month's PHR and advice from SC&C where I bought the UCAs from).

I am also going to throw on some Baer brakes I have had lying around the garage, and I will also be replacing my lower ball joints, lower control arm bushings, and my idler arm.

Thanks again,

Rob
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Razor's Alky, Red's XP fuel pump hotwired, Accufab AFPR, TurboTweak Alky chip, Scanmaster 2.1, 9 inch K&N filter, aluminum driveshaft, 160 thermostat, test pipe, DMH electric exhaust cut-out, TH 2.5 inch exhaust with Magnaflows, RJC powerplate, torque strap, Dutt neck intercooler, LT1 MAF, Translator Plus, 3" THDP, Digi-Tails sequential LED tail lights, Eaton posi, TA Performance rear end girdle

Simmons wheels (17x8.5 front (4.32" backspacing) with 235/45/17s Vredestein Sessentas, 17x9 rear (4.75 backspacing) with 255/45/17s), SC&C Street Comp Stage 2 kit (adjustable upper control arms, Howe tall upper and lower ball joints, S10 Xtreme lower control arm bump stops), 13 inch Baer front brakes, S10 rear wheel cylinders, Moog 5658 front springs with SPC one-half inch spacers
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old April 13th, 2007, 09:25 PM
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Nero,

I spent about six hours today and still am not even half way done. The old bushings/ball joints were very stubborn on my passenger side lower control arm, so I spent an inordinate amount of time on that alone.

I got the new SC&C upper control arm/Howe ball joints/Baer brakes on the passenger side, and will tackle the rest tomorrow/Sunday. I'll be taking the driver's side lower control arm to a shop and let somebody else mess with that.

I'll post some pics tomorrow or Sunday, depending how much I get done.

My front fender measurement above the tire to the floor was 27 inches on both sides before I started...I'll let you know how much it lowers when I get everything bolted back together.

Rob
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Razor's Alky, Red's XP fuel pump hotwired, Accufab AFPR, TurboTweak Alky chip, Scanmaster 2.1, 9 inch K&N filter, aluminum driveshaft, 160 thermostat, test pipe, DMH electric exhaust cut-out, TH 2.5 inch exhaust with Magnaflows, RJC powerplate, torque strap, Dutt neck intercooler, LT1 MAF, Translator Plus, 3" THDP, Digi-Tails sequential LED tail lights, Eaton posi, TA Performance rear end girdle

Simmons wheels (17x8.5 front (4.32" backspacing) with 235/45/17s Vredestein Sessentas, 17x9 rear (4.75 backspacing) with 255/45/17s), SC&C Street Comp Stage 2 kit (adjustable upper control arms, Howe tall upper and lower ball joints, S10 Xtreme lower control arm bump stops), 13 inch Baer front brakes, S10 rear wheel cylinders, Moog 5658 front springs with SPC one-half inch spacers
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old April 14th, 2007, 09:37 AM
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Sounds good to me, Rob!!! AWESOME!!! Can't wait to get mine rolling!!!!

Thanks for the updates
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old April 14th, 2007, 08:24 PM
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Nero,

I pretty much finished up today, but won't be able to get the car to the alignment shop until Monday or Tuesday.

The entire job took me longer than I had planned. If you are planning on doing it yourelf, make sure you have a spring compressor and tools to get your lower control arm bushing out and in (if you plan on replacing them) and to remove and replace your lower ball joint (or allocate time and money to have a machine shop do it).

Here are a few pics of the SC&C arms and Baer Brakes I had on a previous project car that I just installed:


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Razor's Alky, Red's XP fuel pump hotwired, Accufab AFPR, TurboTweak Alky chip, Scanmaster 2.1, 9 inch K&N filter, aluminum driveshaft, 160 thermostat, test pipe, DMH electric exhaust cut-out, TH 2.5 inch exhaust with Magnaflows, RJC powerplate, torque strap, Dutt neck intercooler, LT1 MAF, Translator Plus, 3" THDP, Digi-Tails sequential LED tail lights, Eaton posi, TA Performance rear end girdle

Simmons wheels (17x8.5 front (4.32" backspacing) with 235/45/17s Vredestein Sessentas, 17x9 rear (4.75 backspacing) with 255/45/17s), SC&C Street Comp Stage 2 kit (adjustable upper control arms, Howe tall upper and lower ball joints, S10 Xtreme lower control arm bump stops), 13 inch Baer front brakes, S10 rear wheel cylinders, Moog 5658 front springs with SPC one-half inch spacers
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old April 18th, 2007, 03:35 PM
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Nero,

My car sits 3/4 inch lower in the front, which looks pretty good. I drove the car home from the alignment shop yesterday, but it was in stop and go traffic, so I can't tell you too much about it yet. I plan on driving the car Saturday morning, so I will let you know more then.

Rob
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Razor's Alky, Red's XP fuel pump hotwired, Accufab AFPR, TurboTweak Alky chip, Scanmaster 2.1, 9 inch K&N filter, aluminum driveshaft, 160 thermostat, test pipe, DMH electric exhaust cut-out, TH 2.5 inch exhaust with Magnaflows, RJC powerplate, torque strap, Dutt neck intercooler, LT1 MAF, Translator Plus, 3" THDP, Digi-Tails sequential LED tail lights, Eaton posi, TA Performance rear end girdle

Simmons wheels (17x8.5 front (4.32" backspacing) with 235/45/17s Vredestein Sessentas, 17x9 rear (4.75 backspacing) with 255/45/17s), SC&C Street Comp Stage 2 kit (adjustable upper control arms, Howe tall upper and lower ball joints, S10 Xtreme lower control arm bump stops), 13 inch Baer front brakes, S10 rear wheel cylinders, Moog 5658 front springs with SPC one-half inch spacers
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  #46 (permalink)  
Old April 18th, 2007, 05:43 PM
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Awesome!!! Can't wait to hear more results and see more pix!
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old July 18th, 2007, 09:06 PM
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Nero,

Here is finally a picture of the car. I left the stock springs on the car, and the SC&C Stage 1 kit still dropped the front more than an inch when the springs finally settled. My tires slightly rub on the very outer edge if I hit a good bump. I will probably drop down to 235s and see if that will give me the clearance I need.

The car drives pretty nice with the arms/ball joints on it, although I still get slight wandering at low speeds. I think it just may be due to the Bridgestones I have on it. It is extremely stable at higher speeds though, which is a significant improvement over how it was.

Let me know if you have any questions.

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Razor's Alky, Red's XP fuel pump hotwired, Accufab AFPR, TurboTweak Alky chip, Scanmaster 2.1, 9 inch K&N filter, aluminum driveshaft, 160 thermostat, test pipe, DMH electric exhaust cut-out, TH 2.5 inch exhaust with Magnaflows, RJC powerplate, torque strap, Dutt neck intercooler, LT1 MAF, Translator Plus, 3" THDP, Digi-Tails sequential LED tail lights, Eaton posi, TA Performance rear end girdle

Simmons wheels (17x8.5 front (4.32" backspacing) with 235/45/17s Vredestein Sessentas, 17x9 rear (4.75 backspacing) with 255/45/17s), SC&C Street Comp Stage 2 kit (adjustable upper control arms, Howe tall upper and lower ball joints, S10 Xtreme lower control arm bump stops), 13 inch Baer front brakes, S10 rear wheel cylinders, Moog 5658 front springs with SPC one-half inch spacers
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old July 19th, 2007, 12:01 PM
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Thumbs up

That is a thing of beauty!! The stance, the color, the wheels!!! GREAT! Thanks for the updates!
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old July 19th, 2007, 01:38 PM
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What he said!

I just redid my car with mostly stock parts, and I'm REALLY envious!

Looks awesome...are those Simmons wheels?
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old July 19th, 2007, 02:14 PM
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Yeah check his sig.. looks like the same Simmons RobIron has!!! Those would be the SEX on my car ;-)
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old July 19th, 2007, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Silver Fox View Post
Nero, I pretty much finished up today, but won't be able to get the car to the alignment shop until Monday or Tuesday.
Hey, that rotor in this picture is on the wrong side. Just hope you know that.
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old July 19th, 2007, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by SVT F15O View Post
Hey, that rotor in this picture is on the wrong side. Just hope you know that.
Baer put a directional arrow on the rotor and I faced it that way (the arrow going in the direction of rotation. You can barely see the arrow at the bottom of the one photo). I guess I need to call Baer.

I had these things laying around since 2004, so it is likely I forgot which way they faced.
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Razor's Alky, Red's XP fuel pump hotwired, Accufab AFPR, TurboTweak Alky chip, Scanmaster 2.1, 9 inch K&N filter, aluminum driveshaft, 160 thermostat, test pipe, DMH electric exhaust cut-out, TH 2.5 inch exhaust with Magnaflows, RJC powerplate, torque strap, Dutt neck intercooler, LT1 MAF, Translator Plus, 3" THDP, Digi-Tails sequential LED tail lights, Eaton posi, TA Performance rear end girdle

Simmons wheels (17x8.5 front (4.32" backspacing) with 235/45/17s Vredestein Sessentas, 17x9 rear (4.75 backspacing) with 255/45/17s), SC&C Street Comp Stage 2 kit (adjustable upper control arms, Howe tall upper and lower ball joints, S10 Xtreme lower control arm bump stops), 13 inch Baer front brakes, S10 rear wheel cylinders, Moog 5658 front springs with SPC one-half inch spacers

Last edited by Silver Fox : July 19th, 2007 at 07:16 PM.
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old July 19th, 2007, 07:10 PM
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Baer out a directional arrow on the rotor and I faced it that way. I guess I need to call Baer. Thanks.
Your welcome. Basically what you want is the slot to enter the pad on the inside of the rotor during normal rotation. This pushes the air out of the slot towards the outer edge of the rotor helping with cooling. Hope what I just typed makes sense! -Mat-
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