Thinking About Installing Alcohol Injection?
 

This is an invitation to those of you who have not installed alcohol injection on your car. There are no downsides to alcohol injection.......Only advantages. Make a lot more power and protect your motor from detonation at the same time.

Installing a quality alky kit on your TR is very inexpensive. One of our members, Steve Monroe, has a site that gives easy, complete, instructions on how to make up and install what is commonly referred to as the DIY alchohol injection system. I put mine together over three years ago. While you have to get parts from different sources, it takes no more time to install than any other kit. Cost me about $150 then, and I think I can duplicate it today for $175. The DIY kit employs the use of the $60 Shurflo pump #2687. More pump than you'll ever need. If you have any problems locating any of the parts, or need some specific information on installation, just post here on the alky forum for answers. Additionally to the instructions on the website below, I have installed a warning light next to my boost gauge to let me know the pump is spraying and an activation or test button so I can activate the system manually. Also worth mentioning is, with the Sureflo pump, it's not necessary to gum up your alky mixture with lubricant. It's not necessary. Spend more if you want to. ;) If you've read some posts here making you think installing or using alky was complicated, it's not at all. Here's Steve Monroe's website....

http://home.att.net/~stevemon/AlcoholInjMod.html

Talk about reliability, I have more than 75,000 miles on my car since I installed the DIY kit, and can truthfully say, it has never failed to come on. Never had a pump failure. I have no knock in high gear at 24 psi running a TE44 turbo. DIY alcohol injection not only gives you more power, cheaply, but protects your engine from destructive detonation, which could destroy your motor. I NEVER had any problem tuning it. Just figure your turn-on point, usually between 10 and 15#s of boost, set it and forget it. There is no pump speed to set. Pump is preset to 60 psi and I use a .032 jet and a one gallon reservoir. End of story! However, if you like to experiment, the pump pressure is adjustable to over 100 psi. I've read many posts about alky being hard to tune, I really don't know what they're talking about. They must not have a Steve Monroe DIY kit. This DIY kit can put your STOCK TR into the 12s. Get busy! ;)

Here's a post by RAZOR that you should read if you're thinking about installing alcohol injection............

"Listen, an alcohol injection system is basically a pump, nozzle and tank. The simpler it is kept the easier it is. If you have the ability to install a car radio..you can do this.

No matter what route you take..they all lead to the same river..pump,nozzle, and tank. The debates are how to control the pumps. Both the prefab kits like the SMC, DIY, and stuff I do are all going in the same direction. They all require wiring, drilling, mounting stuff. The experience and technical assistance available on this board cannot be surpassed by any other web site.

If you do your reading and spend some time visiting sites and articles..you will get a grasp on line 1

The complications happen when you break into the 11's for power.. Thats when the power is really being made and requirements are higher.

Decide what you would like the car to do..then make a game plan how your going to take care of that issue..thats what this forum is for. To give different views on the same thing. I too had your feelings initially when I did mine 2 years ago..so i understand.

There are pro's and cons to every way you decide to go about doing this..they usually revolve around $$$ and convenience

And just added..you can do this with your scanmaster..as your end result of 02's will vary with fueling. Your looking for zero knock and a happy motor. Direct scan/turbolink are needed for extended diagnostics. like making chips.."

Red, your a madman :D

Most guys are afraid of DIY because some of the instructions are not that detailed w/picture (you know we Turbo guys are special). It would be nice if someone detailed a DIY Alky setup with pictures. I have read STEVEMON's and like it, only if it was picture oriented. I am going to use alky soon... But pix of a full install would be VERY nice. Red Regal T, I like your idea of a light when the alky is spraying.

Just my .02

Chuck

Most guys are afraid of DIY because some of the instructions are not that detailed w/picture (you know we Turbo guys are special). It would be nice if someone detailed a DIY Alky setup with pictures. I have read STEVEMON's and like it, only if it was picture oriented. I am going to use alky soon... But pix of a full install would be VERY nice. Red Regal T, I like your idea of a light when the alky is spraying.

Just my .02

Chuck

More illustrations and pictures would certainly be more helpful. However, the installation is really simple. There isn't that much to it. There are many guys who have done a diy of one type or another. There would be a lot more but nobody was promoting it. What's really scary is the prospect of paying almost three times the cost to have alcohol injection. :eek: I might have done without. That would kill the bang for the buck. I can freshen an engine for less than that.

Install pixs on my site as well.

www.alkycontrol.com

Not my idea, of course, but a good idea to install a light, close to the boost gauge so you can watch the point at which the pump starts to spray. Initially, I had my power injection light working but it was away from the boost gauge. Hard to watch both. :confused: Also, a very good idea to install a manual activation button or momentary switch so you can start to spray before going to WOT at speed to avoid any transitional knock. ;)

$60 Shurflo pump #2687

Is this still the best pump for alky and is it still priced economically?

Yes. That's it. #2687.........about $60. Go to www.northerntool.com ;)

Red Regal T or other providers,

With your quote above how do you go about setting up the following? I would like to have a light for activation, warning light for when the alky is low, and a test button. Could you please list the parts needed, where to get the parts, and any instruction on how to make them operate properly. I have a dual A-pillar pod with a Boost Gauge and a Caspers Knock Gauge. I would like to have the activation light by the boost gauge and the low light by the knock gauge. I am not sure where to place the test button.

I am going to add alky but want to cover all the bases and make sure it is done correct the first time.

Thank you for all the information in advance.

I installed these extra devices from stuff I have laying around. A warning light, or momentary switch or button can probably be found at Radio Shack or auto parts stores. Low alky warning assembly I got off a late 80s, early 90s Eldorado washer bottle. I think there is a GM part # in Steve Monroe's website. For the activation lite to work, just splice into the wire that activates the pump. When the pump is activated, the lite goes on.

Sorry to be so inept but where are the following relay poles located?

Relay pole # 85
Relay pole # 86
Relay pole # 87
Relay pole # 30/51

Before I bought my TR in '97, I had never used any 30amp relays on any of my big block muscle cars. I didn't know that on the 30 amp relay themselves, each circuit is numbered as you describe, so, I didn't understand it either. I mean, where did they get those numbers? What was wrong with A,B,C and D? Wasn't complicated enough, right? I guess Mr. Wizard and his associates, usually seen on this forum, :rolleyes: thought of these labels. :p

Relays have single or multiple pole switches with single or multiple throw operation and coils.

References should be made on schematic drawings to the proper diagram and nomenclature.

Not just numbers from 30 A car relays.

Would make life easier for some harder for others. ;)

Can someone be very elementary with me and describe what they look like and where they are at? I do understand they are 30 amp relays but not getting the rest. Is there a schematic drawing somewhere that I could reference to help me out?

Did you get the 30 amp relay yet? On the bottom of the relay are prongs. Each one of them are numbered. 85,86,87 and so on. Hook up each number/prong as explained in the instructions.

Your warning light system should include the following: 2 LED lights (with built-in resistors, my preference), a fuse holder (5 amp blade, I prefer), connectors, wire (different colors) and solder. You can wire it accordingly. Start with the low alky warning first, connect positive source to one wire of the LED (fuse in between), connect LED black wire to one pole of the level guage and the other pole to ground. When the level drops to complete the circuit it completes ground and turns the warning light on. Now for the Alky on light, use the same positive source for the other LED lamp (you will only be using one fuse for both lamps and the same power source for both lamps). My pressure switch (is between the ground circuit of the relay) completes ground to activate the relay that powers my alky motor. I connected the black wire of the LED to the ground circuit relay wire closest to the relay. When the pressure switch sees the correct pressure (that energizes the relay that turns the alky motor on), the ground circuit is completed to turn the motor on and turn the alky on light on. For you momentary switch (to manually energize the alky motor) connect a wire on the same side of the relay ground as you did for the black alky-on LED and connect it to one side of the switch, the other side of the switch goes to ground. When you push the momentary button, the ground circuit to the relay is completed (bypassing the pressure switch) and the enerzied relay turns the alky pump on and additionally the alky on warning light. I really don't like to bring battery positive in to the cockpit, and would much rather bring wires into the cockpit that completes ground circuits. The power source for the LED come off a ignition pin on the fuse block (an existing B+ or Ignition+ source). I use solderless connectors with built in heat shrink (GM types, at relay and float guage) all other wires are soldered and heat shrinked. No pictures, but draw your wiring diagram out on a piece of paper and remember that electricity basically travels in a circle.

That is perfect, exactly what I was looking for. Thank you everyone for your help. I am sure I will have further questions when I start putting it together.

I just checked Summit for the jet and they say its N/A. Any suggestions?Replacements?:confused:

I'm never gonna finish this car!:(

Maybe they're not the hot setup for chevys anymore so why bother to carry them, right? Just go to Razor's website, www.alkycontrol.com . He'll hook you up. He has some nice nozzles you can use. ;)

Nozzle

HTH

Razor, your order form page doesn't seem to be working....Do I need to call you?

Yes..727-526-9724

Been extremely busy to get the form done so its "secure" :D

HTH

Julio

ALCOHOL ON DEMAND!
 

UH-0H! GOT MY MANUAL 2ND STAGE ALKY INJECTION ALL HOOKED UP USING AN M-10 NOZZLE I BOUGHT FROM RAZOR. COST ABOUT $20 TO PUT TOGETHER. THIS SYSTEM IS TOTALLY SEPARATE FROM THE PRIMARY ALCOHOL SYSTEM AND OPERATES AT THE PUSH OF A BUTTON. I'LL BE SELLING THESE FOR $299.95 (sounds fair) AS SOON AS I SET UP A NEW BANK ACCOUNT WITH MORE ROOM. GET YOUR ORDERS IN NOW! :D

Well I have most of the parts. Just wanna get Julios progressive controller..... Then hell will be coming driving my car. :) No not because its fast or anything it just looks like hell. :( This DIY kit is the only way to go. Now if there was a way for a DIY TA45 turbo or something for half the price I would be set.

I'm getting my diy kit together. I ordered a couple parts and they'll be here soon. Does it take long to hook it all up?

John I sent you an e-mail with a few questions.

What is the best location for the pump? I read on steve's page on the DS but is that really needed seems like a lot of hose to fill:confused: Going to give the DIY a try and going to order the pump today and try an gather parts over next week.

The hobbs switch can I get one from Napa or just order the NOS one? any other part # besides the NOS?

Also what are you guys using for an overflow tank now?

Dan

Pressure switches: Adjustable units from www.alliedelec.com They are made by Hobbs. Typical part number is 611-3021. Cost is $15 each. A bit cheaper then the NOS units I have found.

Razor installed one behind the passenger headlite.

For a radiator overflow, I use a universal type you can purchase at any retail parts store.

For a radiator overflow, I used that universal radiator overflow tank from Autozone\Pepboys that hangs from a wire cage and put it behind the passenger headlite. The only thing I don't like is it comes with this cheap orange top that just snaps on instead of screwing down like a regular overflow tank. It's fine now, but I'm sure it will eventually fall off. They just had to cheap out on it.

Otherwise an easy hookup, the only problem was I had to grind back that black plastic piece ahead of the core support so I could get my hand in there to get the top off. Just used a hardware store abrasive wheel on my 3/8 drill. Hated to do it, but it cuts away pretty easily and is not too noticeable if you bevel it in nice and definitely looks better than a tank hanging off the fan shroud.

Just got my DIY system in over the weekend. Finished late saturday night. No time to test, and had to do an oil change sunday. Well, on my way to work today, I tested it on the road in front of the office. I'm not using a variable controller, no modofications to to the pump, single M10 hago nozzle (from McMaster Carr) and turn on is at 11psi. Full throttle blast yielded 1.4 degrees of knock retard (without, 10 degrees). WooHoo:D :D :D . Thanks to all that have recommended this system.

Hey Joe, glad you got it all hooked up. The fun begins. Congratulations on choosing the superior equipment. :D

John,
You inspired me with your post in the alky section. I just reviewed and researched previous post to build a fine DIY system. Also, Ron Dona gave me the idea to point the nozzle towards the throttle body, so I welded a bung into the uppipe (on the outside, at the base of the turn) and now my nozzle can be very easily replaced using a long (1/4 drive extension and a 10mm swivel socket).

Re: ALCOHOL ON DEMAND!
 

So far, I don't need a second stage. :( I hope I'll need it soon. Anyway, I can always just sell the plans. :D

I just set up a 2nd stage on my Alky system using an MSD RPM switch to trigger it. I'm using a 4200RPM chip in the switch and a M7 nozzle for the 2nd stage(1st stage is a M10).

Doesn't seem to make much difference in how the car runs, and I can't see it in the O2s on Direct Scan, tho I know it's coming on. I was hoping it would help with my 40 lb injectors leaning out in 3rd gear but it doesn't seem to. May still try a bigger nozzle.

Hate to give up on it, it was a lot of money and hassle to get the RPM switch working on the Buick.

I use the M10 in the first stage and a M15 in the second.

I would go bigger perhaps much bigger before you give up on it.