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Old May 15th, 2008, 09:49 PM
87Regal3.8SFI's Avatar
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Installing the nozzle in the up pipe....should I use both washers? Or just one?

See pics....




This is a brand new Alkycontrol kit I am installing. I noticed the kit comes supplied with 2 washers, one side rubber the other metal.

I read the instructions but not 100% sure what they mean.

My pipe is an aftermarket, brand known. As of now the brass fitting is fairly tight (I didn't want to risk over tighening it and possibly breaking it) but it does swivel somewhat freely if you try to turn it.

Not sure if I should use the other washer on the outside....????

If so how do I get it on the threaded part of the nozzle? Seems like it's a bear to get on.

Thanks!
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1987 Regal LC2, hot-wired, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, blue top injectors, Accufab adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Turbo Tweak chip, GN110T cam, TE-44 turbo, Alkycontrol, 3 inch mandrel bent Dynomax exhaust, Scanmaster, OD lockout detent plate, RJC power plate and RJC boost controller

Quote:
Originally Posted by corsair231 View Post
Build a car to go 11's and detune it to run 12's and you don't have to worry about parts breakage. Build it for 11's and try to push it into the 10's and all bets are off. Of course trying to run a number is fine if that is what you want to do but beware if you walk on the edge sometimes you fall off.
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Old May 15th, 2008, 11:05 PM
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I'm 99% sure you only put one on the outside of the pipe, but maybe I'm remembering wrong. Even after the nozzle is tight, it will still "swivel" on the pipe if you try to move it.
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Old May 16th, 2008, 04:41 AM
87Regal3.8SFI's Avatar
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Per the instructions:

Quote:
Mount the nozzle from the inside out WITH THE RUBBER WASHER ON THE INSIDE INSTALLED and attach the 90 degree brass elbow onto it. Depending on the thickness of the pipe, will dictate whether an additional sealing washer will be needed or not on the outside of the pipe. To make the determination look through the hole on the elbow and make sure the tip of the nozzle does not contact the bottom of the fitting. In other words, does not bottom out.
When I took this kit out of the box, one of the washers was already installed on the nozzle, the rubber side facing outwards.
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1987 Regal LC2, hot-wired, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, blue top injectors, Accufab adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Turbo Tweak chip, GN110T cam, TE-44 turbo, Alkycontrol, 3 inch mandrel bent Dynomax exhaust, Scanmaster, OD lockout detent plate, RJC power plate and RJC boost controller

Quote:
Originally Posted by corsair231 View Post
Build a car to go 11's and detune it to run 12's and you don't have to worry about parts breakage. Build it for 11's and try to push it into the 10's and all bets are off. Of course trying to run a number is fine if that is what you want to do but beware if you walk on the edge sometimes you fall off.
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Old May 16th, 2008, 07:20 AM
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Take off the 1/8 npt to -4 adapter.. look inside the hole with a light.. and make sure the tip of the nozzle with the screen is not bottoming out. If it is.. then add the external washer. The washer is used to make up for variances in thickness in the pipes. Aluminum pipes always need it. Steel pipes.. some do.. some dont,

You cannot tell with the little adapter you have on as pictured.

HTH
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Old May 17th, 2008, 02:38 AM
87Regal3.8SFI's Avatar
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Thanks I think I figured it out.
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1987 Regal LC2, hot-wired, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, blue top injectors, Accufab adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Turbo Tweak chip, GN110T cam, TE-44 turbo, Alkycontrol, 3 inch mandrel bent Dynomax exhaust, Scanmaster, OD lockout detent plate, RJC power plate and RJC boost controller

Quote:
Originally Posted by corsair231 View Post
Build a car to go 11's and detune it to run 12's and you don't have to worry about parts breakage. Build it for 11's and try to push it into the 10's and all bets are off. Of course trying to run a number is fine if that is what you want to do but beware if you walk on the edge sometimes you fall off.
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