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Ive seen some issues with the use of the older style translator with the LT1 MAF whereby you can get surging. But at WOT it wasnt an issue. Alcohol doesnt affect the WG.
Now too much alcohol can make the motor surge, too little you get KR. Just like too much fuel can also do the same. The kit will really put out volume if you crank on the controls.. watch your plugs .. they should be a tan color, if theyre laiden in black soot.. your probably over spraying.. its very easy to over spray. Got to find your balance of fuel, timing, and alcohol to yield the most power and minimize KR.. yeah yeah.. easier said than done Another way is drop the alky amount and add octane to the gas. Just for test purposes. or... Bring the boost down to like 19-20 PSI and get it to run clean.. then start upping the boost. When plug gaps are issue it will pooof pooof blow the spark out. Could also be an ignition module.. Post back your findings.. BTW.. glad to see your around ![]()
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89 TTA Stock appearing 10.550 at 132.22 1.539 60ft 3850 race weight w/driver Always on 93 octane www.alkycontrol.com 727-570-9999 |
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Thanks Julio.
Of course Im around . Cant keep me away from my toys. Especially when its turned into more or less my daily driver and Im still stubborn enough to keep playin with it ![]() There is a definate break down under [higher] boost. I was going to gap the plugs down to .030 with the thought that either the boost or alky is blowing out the flame. I did try turning the PAC knob down. Seemed to help, but then kr began to raise its ugly head. Need/want both the alky and the boost so maybe regapping may do the trick? I like your suggestion of backing down the boost and goin from there too. Wont be the first time Ive done that. Just tired of always starting over. Seems everytime Im on to something and have the car running faster, its all down the drain and back to tuning from square one. At the track here that is not easy, to say the least. Took me four hours to get two passes the other night!! I'll pull the plugs out to see what they look like and start from there. I'll get it together sooner or later, especially with your guys help. P.S. on the shaking gauge issue. Someone commented in another thread that his VDO gauge was doing that and he switched to a Autometer and problem gone. Maybe that issue is not related to the performance issue at all and its just the gauge?
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'84 Ttype I Black/Burgundy Fully loaded w/ Ttops, OE '84 block, SP204/214, home ported heads, CC980 vsprings, V1 intake, Limit TA33C, ported TB by Jay Jackson, 14"K&N, old LT headers & 3"DP, ATR 3" singleshot, 37#DelPhi inj, Walbro 340(hot wired), '87ecm, JL street chip, Poston's 2800 conv, Razor's PAC, and TUNING! "no intercooler, like being the underdog" ![]() "bests": 60ft- 1.767 (10/11/05), 1/8- 8.13@84.05 (10/5/04), 1/4ET- 12.80 (10/5/04), 1/4mph- 106.52 (10/10/06), all in "STREET TRIM" '84 Ttype II Black/Lear Seigler K&N, Hooker exhaust '87 GN Monster in the making? '95 CapriceSS 9C1/LT1 daily driver '91 Suburban '62 Impala 2dr coupe lowrider Last edited by 6SENSE : June 1st, 2004 at 01:10 AM. |
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You have t-link. Make a recording and play it back. See if you see any weirdness. Also didnt you have the t-link boost sensing harness? Maybe hook that up and see if the harness gets spikes recorded? The 3 bar sensor is a guage of sorts as well.
man with a Buick.. anything is possible ![]() If the motor feels steady, yet the guage has issues.. then guage could be suspect. But if you feel surging.. then its not the guage. You can hook up any guage to read air pressure. Doesnt have to be a boost guage. Like an oil pressure, fuel pressure, etc... HTH
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89 TTA Stock appearing 10.550 at 132.22 1.539 60ft 3850 race weight w/driver Always on 93 octane www.alkycontrol.com 727-570-9999 |
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