Rear Mounted Tank

chadswe4 · #1 (**permalink**) December 12th, 2003, 09:19 PM

I'm looking for a tank to use with alky that I car mount in my trunk?
Thanks
Chad

larry33kc · #2 (**permalink**) December 13th, 2003, 02:49 PM

I used the SMC round tank and just made a bracket to mount it to the driver side brace by the fender. HTH

Razor · #3 (**permalink**) December 13th, 2003, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by chadswe4
I'm looking for a tank to use with alky that I car mount in my trunk?
Thanks
Chad

Why? Do you road race and need more than a gallon?

chadswe4 · #4 (**permalink**) December 13th, 2003, 04:44 PM

I'm looking to mount the tank and pump in the trunk. I'm going for a cleaner look. Plus it's easer to work on.
Thanks
Chad

Razor · #5 (**permalink**) December 13th, 2003, 05:19 PM

Problem is fill times on the lines. That is the inherent problem with a liquid. Its not nitrous that runs on 1000 PSI. Its alcohol..

Remember you need alcohol into the motor as soon as possible.. the time it takes a 15 foot hose to fill is pretty substantial when the motor needs it NOW..

Cleaner than my setups.. dunno.. Look at my install pixs.. I done quite a few after, theyre not up yet..

twidge · #6 (**permalink**) December 13th, 2003, 05:24 PM

Go get a cheap fuel sell from summit if you want to do that. I think if you mounted the pump in the engine bay and had a small pusher pump to keep the alky up to the main pump that would work well.

Sleeper · #7 (**permalink**) December 13th, 2003, 06:21 PM

I'm thinking of this as an option as well, only mine is because of the lack of room in the engine bay.
What about some sort of check valve in the line, to keep the pump primed?

Paul

Sleeper · #8 (**permalink**) December 14th, 2003, 12:38 AM

Thank's Lee

Julio, what do you think about the check valve idea?

Paul

Razor · #9 (**permalink**) December 14th, 2003, 12:59 AM

I find that the shurflo doesnt like anything before it. Any restriction before the pump will cuase its output to drop. I found about this the hard way trying to use filters pre-pump. On a 12 second car that doesnt need a lot of alcohol, pump pressure is not as critical. So this is one issue.

The factory GN container is a gallon.. hence why I asked if the car was being road raced. yes small line fills fast.. but the longer the hose.. the more time. If I did a trunk mount, i'd want a 5+ gallon container. I wouldnt waste my time having a gallon up front thats easy..has been reliable.. and looks stock.

The pump itself is designed to hold pressure, so it has a check of sorts built in. And with correct nozzle and placement, very little issues of any kind.

Paul I understand in your particular case. And a trunk system may be best for you. Possibly to a prime the system before running the car? This may prove to be a simple solution.

At 4-6 oz per 1/4 mile pass.. 128 oz is a lot of passes..

Now the guys with the 2 quart bottle.. every three days that gets filled.

Razor · #10 (**permalink**) December 14th, 2003, 01:03 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by twidge
Go get a cheap fuel sell from summit if you want to do that. I think if you mounted the pump in the engine bay and had a small pusher pump to keep the alky up to the main pump that would work well.

Fuel cell must be plastic, not have any aluminum fittings. The pusher pump must be alky compatible, and come on earlier than the main feed pump.

Can I ask what you used for a pusher pump?

salvageV6 · #11 (**permalink**) December 14th, 2003, 11:46 AM

Put the check valve in the line after the pump should work fine.

Razor · #12 (**permalink**) December 14th, 2003, 08:39 PM

And make sure that check valve is alcohol compatible, can handle the pressure, and wont inhibit flow.. Three more things to worry about.

salvageV6 · #13 (**permalink**) December 15th, 2003, 11:11 AM

Circle Seal CA.

3000 psi. brass.

Nothing to worry about other than the shurflow surging.

Sleeper · #14 (**permalink**) December 15th, 2003, 01:49 PM

Just curious Lee...What did you use for the (trunk to front) line?

Thanks salvageV6

Paul

Razor · #15 (**permalink**) December 15th, 2003, 05:53 PM

Me..I still prefer the braided teflon hose route since it has less of a chance to get punctured, will handle just about any pressure thrown at it, wont come apart after years, and is designed specifically for the chemical being used. So it costs a little more.. labor time involved is way more expensive in my book. Especially when dealing with something as flammable as alcohol.

I like cheap too.. I just cant recommend rubber air hose...if someone wants to use use..go for it.

60-70-80 PSI it bursts.. your going to see a mess.

HTH

Julio

I dont manufacture braided hose, I dont own stock in any braided hose companies..just my own personal preference..i'd spend the extra 3-4 bucks a foot and get the rite hose .. done once. With the HYD crimped ends that never fail. 1500 PSI+

Lee i'm with ya on the built in check valve.

chadswe4 · #16 (**permalink**) December 15th, 2003, 10:52 PM

Does anyone out there have a tank in there trunk?
If so can you post the
Size
Type of tank
How you mounted it
Where you found it
And any pic of it
Thanks
Chad

Sleeper · #17 (**permalink**) December 16th, 2003, 01:32 AM

Julio
The SHURflo pump spec sheet states: That the pump is self priming up to 10' vertical. Do you see a pump feed problem with a poor (slight angle) gravity feed setup, if I mount a tank in the trunk and the pump low up front ?(intercooler level)

I'm still working on options

Thanks for the reply Lee

Paul

Razor · #18 (**permalink**) December 16th, 2003, 08:41 AM

See the pump can be run dry..without damage, and it will suck fluid. The problem is if the pump is higher than the tank, you may get air in the lines..this air will get eventually displaced. But when time is of the essence, you need the pump to be primed. If I had a choice, and the tank had to be mounted in the rear, I would mount the pump in the rear lower than the tank and just make sure the lines were primed before hammering on it. -4 line fills fast. Really fast. And I sincerly doubt you could ever really dry out 12 feet of hose.. Once primed..from that point zero issues.

Just dont let the car sit for a week.. all of a sudden take it out for a spin and boost it to 25 PSI. If you prime the line..you wont have any issue. check valve or not. Once theyve been primed, the rest of the day.. no issues. All the pump needs is like 2-3 seconds..lines are purged ready to go.

I'll be contacting a couple tank manufacturers .. I found a 5 gallon sumped chemical tank

.. hehehe still working on something a little smaller.

Julio

Razor · #19 (**permalink**) December 16th, 2003, 10:11 AM

Leeo..sounds like you'd be a good candidate for a 5 gallon tank

The TTA tank is 1.5 gallons..

EclipseTurbo · #20 (**permalink**) December 18th, 2003, 12:47 AM

Razor, do you have anything that is 1-2 gallon, and have a low level warning? I can figure the the mounting

Or option B, big enough to fit my hand in there to install a low level sensor.

I am relying so much on methanol I really need to know if the level is low.

I am using a stainless steel canister right now but the top is not real air tight. The methanol spill out a bit when I go pass bumps.

Thinking of a 2.5 gallon SS keg but the cap has rubber seal.

Another requirement is a bottom nipple for the feedline, I don't want to draw it from the top.

Let me know what you got