Quote:
Originally Posted by 87Regal3.8SFI
Thanks, you are referring to the where the rod attaches to the brake pedal right?
Also does the block on top of the intake incorporate some sort of check valve to prevent boost from reaching the master cylinder?
|
I'm not entirely clear on which holes get redrilled as my car was already converted when I bought it (they just never cleaned/painted the booster and they used the wrong fluid reservoir and tee'd into the PCV valve line for the vacuum source while keeping the stock plastic vacuum block so I ended up redoing everything to make it right for me.) The hole where the brake pedal attaches to the rod should already be the correct size since you need to use the brake pedal from the donor vehicle as well. I imagine the hole where the pedal attaches to the bracket under the dash is the one that needs redrilled. All I really know is what I read in the description on Kirban's website for his conversion kit:
"The actual booster unit uses the same holes on the firewall as the original
powermaster. You will have to redrill the holes for the brake pedal on the
inside of the car. Since nothing gets cut or drilled related to the original
powermaster, the original powermaster can be reused should you want to
convert back to the factory set up at a later date."
As somebody stated previously, the 90 degree elbow where the vacuum line attaches to the booster has a check valve built in just like on any other vacuum brake car so no other check valve is needed. The aftermarket blocks simply add the extra port on the driver's side to be used for the brakes just like the factory vacuum block on the TTAs (they came from the factory with vacuum brakes.)