[Hotair85]

Originally Posted by Jerryl

CJ,

Here is my advice without unsulting your inteligence.
There are no shortcuts in TR's, meaning ...........
If you want to run the numbers, you got to do it right.

I would turn the boost down to 10 max, and make sure the car is mechanically sound.
If you do not have one , get a scantool, before you spend any $$$$ on performance parts.
Tuning will take you MUCH farther than any performance part will.
Even if you are not into the performance, tuning will take the car MANY more miles than your think possible. (Some have reported 250,000 miles!)
I would start with the "Spring cleaning" procedure on Turbo Regal Web Site

Just a few thoughts ..........

Well here's my reply without trying to sound like a dick:

Thanx for the advice, but I have 2 scantools already. I have an OTC 4000 with the appropriate cartridge and T-Link (I like the OTC 4000 because it updates faster).

I don't do anything without either of them. I realize there are no shortcuts and wasn't implying that there were. I have a goal of a reliable mid-12 occasional driver. I'm going to acheive it by hook or by crook.

I just took the chip because it was free and I was broke as hell. I'm thinking I may invest in a Turbo Tweak custom chip and take your advice and do it right. Like I should've from the beginning. Hence why I am looking at putting the headers on now. Since I''ll have easier access to the bolts with the trans out, why not? While I'm under the car, why not drop the tank and check my fuel pump situation out and address the issues there? (Although I think I would have far worse drivability issues with the pump being the problem).

As far as the spring cleaning procedure, I followed that every time I took her out of mothballs for the winter. I am anal about all my cars. I run nothing but synthetic lubrication in all applicable areas. Truth is, I was a college kid when I built this car. I didn't have the money do do a lot of the things I wanted to do to this car. I made sacrifices for things I figured I could do down the road. A fuel pump was one, as was a chip. Fact of the matter is, most of the parts are second-hand on that car. That's what I love about hot-airs. With many of us converting to I/C cars, the larger the availability of parts for guys like us.

Now I have the dough, so I may as well do it right. I know you guys don't know me well, as I mainly lurk around and do searches to see if my problem may be answered by someone else with a similar one. I hate answering the same question 1000 times and I'm sure you guys do too. But, I have owned this car for almost 5 years now and every time I work on it, I learn something. Sorry for the long reply, but I figured you guys needed to know all that.

Jerryl I know you didn't intend to insult my intelligence, and I'm not trying to sound like an a-hole. But when I come here and ask something, it's like calling Tech Assist back at the dealer. I just need guidance by those who have been at it far longer than I have.

With that said, what about heat range on the plugs? I'm running AC R44TS's gapped at .035". I can't remember if those are colder than stock or not. I seem to remember them being right for my setup as per the advice I got on here when building the car.