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Bleeding the PowerMaster Accumulator:
Note: Check the fluid level in the bowl before you begin. If the p/s of the bowl is full of fluid, use the baster and the catch container to remove about half of the fluid before you depressurize (pump down) the acc. It is over full and will spew brake fluid everywhere when you pump down. Acc bleeding should also be performed whenever it is replaced for general maintenance.
Step 1 – Pump down the accumulator. 10 pedal pumps (min) with the ignition key off.
Typically the pedal will get quite firm when you get the pressure down. Brake fluid should be coming into the p/s of the bowl when the brake pedal is being released. Frothy fluid may develop as the p/s of the bowl fills with fluid from the acc. The fluid is saturated with air (microbubbles). It should clear up in a few minutes. If it doesn’t, remove the fluid from the bowl and replace it with fresh fluid. If the fluid returning into the bowl is dark or cloudy, replace it with fresh fluid. Wipe the inside of the bowl clean with the lint free rags as needed to remove old fluid or contaminants.
Step 2 – Pump up (re-pressurize) the Accumulator. Be sure the p/s of the bowl is full with good fluid and turn on the ignition key. Do not start the engine.
The pump should begin running and the fluid level should begin to drop in the passenger side of the bowl. Do not allow the p/s of the bowl to empty. Observe the rear port of the p/s bowl when pumping up. No fluid should be returning into the bowl through the rear port during this part of the process. Returning fluid indicates an internal leak. An appropriate sized piece of that clear tubing can also be used to aid in seeing returning fluid. <insert pic>
The 20-second rule: Do not allow the motor to run more than 20 seconds at any time.
A properly functioning P/M should not run more than about 7 seconds before it shuts off automatically to pump up the acc. If the key needs to be turned off due to this rule, wait a few minutes for the pump/motor too cool down before turning the key back on. Pumping down may help if it is a brand new acc. There may be air in it and it needs to come out. If the motor still will not shut off in less than 20 seconds, the diagnostic procedure may help to determine the problem.
Accumulator bleeding should be repeated until no air (frothy fluid, microbubbles) is present on pump down.
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87' Jeep Wrangler - 'Frankenstein' - 3rd or 4th motor (dont ask), pos trani from an 89 but soon to have an AX15, Holley 350, modified wiring harness, Flowmaster 40 duals, lift shackels, continuing...
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/index.php
87' Grand National - 'Zeus' - 200K with a d@mn good PowerMaster, but now waiting on a fresh turbo, a stretch intercooler install, fresh headers, downpipe, rear diff....
A.S.E. Certified Automotive Nut #1
( Always Something Else)
The PowerMaster Bleeding Procedure:
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/bra...procedure.html
An excellent PowerMaster Discussion:
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/bra...ster-87gn.html
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