[zeus87gn]

Theory:

All of the techniques described here take place with the P/M installed on the car. If any repairs to the P/M or the brake system in general are needed, perform those repairs first. If the P/M has been replaced as a complete or rebuilt unit, you will need to perform the Bench Bleeding procedure before connecting the brake lines that go to the wheels.

The P/M must be well maintained in order to function correctly over the course of time. Clean fluid is a must. If your fluid is dark, black or cloudy, it should be replaced. A regular flushing/bleeding can be done with the correct tools in a reasonable amount of time. My own personal preference for fluid is DOT4. I have been using it for many years now and just all around seems to work better than 3. It has less resistance to fading, and darkening and doesn’t seem to absorb moisture near as much.

Brake systems work on applied pressure and must be completely free of air to function as intended. Brake fluid is like hydraulic fluid as it is not compressible. If you have the ’soft pedal’ feeling when you hit the brakes, you most likely have air. The system must be free of any and all leaks while these procedures are performed. A leak will let the fluid out and the air in, neither of which is wanted.


The P/M has 2 sides to it. Therefore it has a divided reservoir (bowl). They are:
1 - The high pressure side with the pump & motor, the accumulator (acc), the pressure switch and the passenger side (p/s) of the bowl; and
2 - The standard side, which is your typical master cylinder and the drivers side (d/s) of the bowl. Even though they are part of the same unit and work together, they can be considered two separate parts and should be bled individually.


Getting Started:
Assemble the needed items.
1 - You will need an ample amount of brake fluid;
2 - Flair wrenches and/or sockets to loosen the wheel cylinder bleeder screws and/or brake line nuts;
3 - A catch container so as not to spill the brake fluid;
4 - Some clear plastic/vinyl tubing appropriately sized to fit snugly over the tip of the wheel bleeder screws;
5 - A turkey baster or a 60ml syringe dedicated to automotive use;
6 - Special threaded fittings with small clear plastic/vinyl hoses will be needed for bench bleeding. These fittings can be found in the ‘Help’ section of your local parts store, the clear plastic/vinyl hoses can be found at your local ‘chain’ type hardware store;
7 - You will also need lint free rags for cleaning out the bowl if old fluid is present, but standard shop rags for normal use.
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