So overwhelmed

The good news is that the number of sensors that can go bad are limited. The bad news is the car is 38 years old and the wiring is starting to get brittle. Fresh plugs, fresh O2 sensor, new plug wires, new vacuum hoses is a good start.
 
With over 100K and more than a 1/3 of century, you're overdue for a new timing set. (and while you're there,convert over to a neoprene seal, so my free oil flow mods, etc, etc, etc... You know, the ''as long as I'm theres'', and the ''might as well while I've got it torn down this fars'')

Odds are your valve springs are much and that's why you feel about 100hp down (because you are).

If they're the stock springs, you DEFINITELY are leaving a bunch of power on the table. (and burning exhaust valves/seats doing it)

Odds are your small vacuum lines are shot. If you touch them and your finger comes back black, they're long since gone. Make sure your check valves are check valving too.


You didn't list any other mods/updates/preventative maintence, so I can speculate on any thing else.

TRUTH!!!!!
 
The good news is that the number of sensors that can go bad are limited. The bad news is the car is 38 years old and the wiring is starting to get brittle. Fresh plugs, fresh O2 sensor, new plug wires, new vacuum hoses is a good start.
More TRUTH! :cool:
 
To be honest the saying”while you’re in there” is the primary reason my cars been down for about 2 years now. Not saying it is bad, but just do not bite off more than you can chew
 
Hello good people of the planet PSI. I have been following all your advice so I have been busy. It took me 2 week just to get the vac. hose residue off. I have gone through and replaced all vac. hoses. I found a faulty vac. valve on my brake conversion and that sucker was intermittent. Put in a scanmasterG and powerlogger. I had a high boost problem but not anymore bypassed the solenoid with grim adj. boost contraption between the hoses, new wast gate actuator and other things boost is under control now. But I see I am still getting knock? Here is my log that was requested. Thanks All
 

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Without seeing the log, can you post the basics...

Gas octane
Boost max
Millivolts
Fuel Pressure base and WOT
Knock amount, gear it's happening in and during pull or at shift?

Honestly with your cars age, stock turbo and intercooler age etc if all numbers look good I'd still stay around 15psi on pump 93 just to be safe.

100k miles, wow you got a lot of trouble free miles, you won the GN lottery. LOL
 
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Oh sorry stock chip that is it
If that is the original stock chip , it NEEDS to be changed !! To much timing for todays gas . Get a chip from Eric @ TurboTweak . Keep boost to 15psi max because that knock is an invitation to headgasket replacement .
Post up any mods that are done to the car . It will make it easier for us to help you .
Where are you located ?
 
As for the modifications very few I have the Grim boost adjuster I purchased a new wastegate actuator have the scan Master G the power logger and a three-bar map that's it
 
I posted a data file like Scooby-Doo wanted further up the thread can anybody decipher it for me
 
Your idle screen shot...

TPS a tad low, try for .42
Idle volts a touch low at 13.1 but curious what you see cruising.
Not familar with knock counts vs knock retard but seeing 1 seems odd for idle.

AFR seems good
The others will come in on log, I can't read it.

A WOT pull will give a big picture so hold on, I'm sure somethings there in the log.
 
Maybe you can get it over to my house , put it on the lift and give it a once over .
We can also smoke test it & check for Vac / Exhaust leaks .
 
Knock will not go away with stock chip unless you get some 100 octane fuel.
Much easier to fix and make it run sweet when to purchase a TT chip
 
BLM's way Low also.. too rich. Need to see what the fuel gauge base setting is.
 
But if my engine is running rich why do I get knock could it be a false knock you think
 
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